Condensation is definitely a concern in colder weather. If you create a thermal break that isn't properly sealed against air leakage, warm air from the house will seep behind the walls, bringing lots and lots of moisture with it. Meanwhile the bricks, which are now insulated, are going to be very very cold, and when warm air gets cold it lets go of its moisture - and thus we get condensation.
That condensation would then get trapped inside the walls - and long before you have a problem with brick deterioration you're going to have mold issues that lead to health issues.
The best thing to do to prevent this is to insulate with a substance that also serves as a vapor barrier, which will prevent any air (and thus any moisture) from leaking into the closed cavity. The best product for this IMO is spray foam insulation, because it fills in all the nooks and crannies and IS the vapor barrier.
Alternatively, you could use fiberglass and cover it over with plastic to form a vapor barrier, and this can work IF you properly seal it all the way around the edges, seams and any holes that occur.
Either approach, however, is going to require you to sacrifice living space, as for a proper thermal break you're going to probably want at least 4" of insulation.
Now - with regard to insulating your spare rooms. Don't insulate your interior walls. Put proper insulation in the external walls of those rooms, so that they don't lose heat to the outside. Yes you will be heating them, but if they're properly insulated they're not going to cost much to heat and there are numerous other concerns with turning an inside room into a "cold" room - it's a finished space, after all, and you don't want to risk damaging that by letting it be freezing cold in there.
The 'Mike Holmes' way is also the Building Science Corporation's recommendation--though they don't recommend any formal vapor barrier--just XPS and tape. The idea is that XPS is a vapor retarder, but can ultimately dry one way or the other if it ever has to.
That said, if you are absolutely 100% sure your basement will be forever dry, it probably doesn't matter what method you go for. You do have a strong advantage by having exterior waterproofing.
Regardless, I wouldn't use wood in the basement (treated or otherwise) and instead go with metal studs. They're just so much easier to work with. I outline my other reasons for that here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/8644/1209
Best Answer
I had a similar wall that I insulated exactly (well, almost) the way you're describing. Here's a cross section of the wall. The left side is towards an unheated workshop.
I don't think I used 1.5 inch XPS because it would have caused the sheet rock to bulge slightly.
Another option is what they call an R13+5 construction. With this technique, which can be used for new construction or when you're tearing down to the studs, fills the 3-1/2" wall cavity with something like Rockwool (R13), then fasten foam board insulation with an R-value of 5 to the outside of the wall, before your house wrap and siding. The chart excerpt below is from a local building code information brochure.