You may want to be a bit more specific with your question. But, in general, the tools would be various masonry trowels...specifically one for tuckpointing, a joint striker (to strike the mortar if you want to indent it) and a wire brush.
How to do it? Well, a quick Google should show you plenty of tutorials, but basically you:
- Chisel/grind out as much loose mortar as you can
- Mix new mortar (ideally mortar rated for the particular brick you are using)
- Insert mortar (either via the tuckpointing trowel, or you can use the 'icing bag' technique)
- let dry a little bit, strike the joints
- let dry a little bit more, run a wire brush over the brick to clean up an extra
Many laptop cords are standardized. Where there is no external power supply, they often just need a stock AC cord such as this.
If it is three prong, it may be like this.
If it is damaged, replace it. It is cheap, available at many locations and safe. Do not repair except as an emergency measure.
However, many laptops have an AC cord (the cord that plugs into the wall) that also plugs in on the other end to a power supply (a small plastic brick). The AC wire almost always can be disconnected from the unit and the same replacement technique applies.
The AC cord is on the left, the power supply and its cord on the right.
If the AC cord is damaged, replace the cord.
If the other wire attached to this unit (the wire that goes to the computer rather than the wall) is damaged, this is much more problematic. These wires are almost always not detachable from the power supply, and they are usually proprietary (non-standard connectors). If the damage is very minor, you may be able to get away with shrink tubing, if it fits over the connector (sounds doubtful), or plastic electrical tape (always a bit sketchy on a wire that flexes). This is a low voltage wire, but it still is problematic. You may need to get a replacement power supply from the manufacturer or a third party supplier.
On the other cords, there are two types of replacement plugs, screw on and piercing.
Pierce seems easier, but screw on seems more reliable. They are also available in polarized and three prong versions. Cut the wire above the bad section and bring your old plug to match.
Best Answer
You ask for a box, as long as 120V does not go thru, then you can use a low voltage cut-in ring.
These rings come in 1,2,3 and 4 gang or even round. You can use a 1 gang weatherproof cover with either 1 1/2 hub or 3 hubs. Or you can buy a blank plate and drill your own 7/8.
Weatherproof plate with 3 1/2 hubs
To make where your cable goes thru the cover you can use a strain relief connector. You pick your connectors by the size of gland (grommet) you need to use and then there is a compression nut that tightens and the gland compresses to your cable.
You can probably get 2 holes drilled if you use a 1 gang blank plate or 4 holes if you use the 2 gang ring and plate. You can always do one size and change the ring to a larger size if you want, but you can't go backwards.
You can buy all this at a DIY box store or at your local electrical distributor.