Radiant barrier in the attic is an excellent idea. At the typical roof temperatures you see in the summer, even in a temperate climate, radiant transport of heat is significant and a properly installed radiant barrier can be very effective in blocking or reducing radiant transport of heat.
California Title 24 now requires some kind of radiant barrier. My house was built just before this requirement took effect but I elected to pay the small premium to use TechShield radiant barrier anyway and it has been worth it. I reviewed the AtticFoil site and they seem to have a good product for retrofit applications. Your plan sounds like a good idea and I don't see any major issues aside from the usual ones of "work carefully, try to avoid falling through your ceiling, prepare for the high temperatures up there, watch out for dust etc".
Do try to stay away from the "over-insulation" method as that loses effectiveness as dust builds up on the top (working side) of the barrier. Your plan to use the "open-ridge" method is the best as dust buildup on the bottom (working side) of the barrier is not as much of a problem.
Insulation of the ducts is not a binary yes/no question any more than attic insulation is. funkadelic understands this and that is why he plans to increase his attic insulation from R19 to R50.
Yet duct insulation is typically no more than R4 to R8 while carrying the coldest air in the house. It is the part of the HVAC system that has the least insulation while needing it the most.
No doubt there are some installers who think that as long as "cold" air comes out the register there is no problem but this ignores the question of how cold is the air at the end of the duct vs the air that went into the duct and how much cooling power has been lost in the duct.
Who would accept a water pipe that leaked half of the water it carried?
The Federal government has done many studies of ways to reduce duct loss because it does make a difference in your energy efficiency. There are even suggestions to move the HVAC ducts into conditioned space as this would cut duct heat/cooling losses to zero. I did this in my house.
For retrofit, moving ducts is impractical so the next best is to bury the ducts. You have an excellent opportunity to do this when you upgrade to R-50 of cellulose.
http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/building_america/ns/eemtg082011_a8_duct_retrofit.pdf
I am also in the Northeast and have had to tackle this type of situation a few times. There are several ways to attack it.
In your case, the best solution, but unfortunately the most expensive would be to use an open cell foam kit to fill the joist bays. They are fairly easy to use and give you about an R-4 rating per inch. They are a two tank kit with a hose and wand.
Here is an example product: Touch N Seal 1000 Kit Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation
These type of kits start around $400, depending on the square footage and depth required.
A cheaper method would be to use 24 inch R-19 unfaced blanket insulation cut to your custom widths. You can use wire springs to hold it in place and keep it from falling. I would then cover the entire area with 4 to 6 mil plastic, stapled to all the joists. Tape the joints, if any. Moisture should not be a major problem since you have already done what sounds like a good job sealing the dirt floor. In the summer months, some ventilation in the crawl space will also help avoid excess moisture.
Rigid foam glued to the foundation walls would also help if the area is fairly air tight. If there is free air flow, insulating the brick walls would be a waste of time and money.
Best Answer
Any recommendation depends on your location - I wouldn't provide the same answer for Yuma, AZ as I might for Edmonton, AB.
When water vapor diffuses through a wall and reaches the exterior sheathing, if that sheathing temperature is below the dew point the vapor will condense. Depending on the amount of water vapor and the rate at which the wall cavity is able to dry out, this may lead to moisture problems.
Installing insulation in the wall cavity will help reduce heating costs, but won't address the problem of sheathing temperature. As a result, some builders are specifying 2" to 4" or more foil faced polyiso panels be installed outside of the sheathing to raise the temperature above the dew point. In these designs, some don't even advocate using cavity insulation. Vapor will still diffuse into the cavity, but it will not condense on the sheathing surface.
Installing foil faced polyiso on the interior of the wall, properly air sealed and with taped joints, forms an effective vapor barrier which will reduce the problem of moisture diffusing through the walls. However it may not solve all of the problems with vapor diffusion so it's quite possible to still have problems.
Additionally, while most people look to insulation as a primary solution for energy savings, often older homes would find greater benefit from air sealing. There is almost no way you can make an older house with plaster walls "too tight." In fact, the idea of houses being "too tight" is something of a myth. Your goal should be to have "managed ventilation" rather than the unmanaged ventilation common in older homes.
In my 1870's New England house as an "inside" solution I removed the plaster, installed fiberglass batt insulation in the cavities, applied 2" foil faced polyiso over the studs (for a thermal break and vapor barrier), with 1x3 furring strips and gypsum on top.