You took the wind out of my sails with that last paragraph. I was going to suggest using a nut/bolt.
As far as it causing problems when the tabletop is lowered, you can recess the bolt head. Yeah, you could make the cavity in which the bolt will stay on the underside of the tabletop, but maybe you'll drill too far or crack/scratch the tabletop if you chisel it out. It could end badly... which is why you should instead house the bolt head on the top-side of the cross member.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBNAx.jpg)
Brown = table top
Black = underlying cross member
The one on the left is what you were talking about. The one on the right is what you want to do.
Also, use a washer under the bolt head, etc.
Your task is to find the studs..
Electronic versions of stud finders abound, plaster is difficult for most of them. I have a 1/2 dozen of them.. I keep hoping. The problem with plaster is the lath used to support it. The lath can be a variety of materials: wood strips, metal mesh and even pasterboard. All of these materials are attached to the studs and THEN the plaster is coated over the lath. Two newer scanners aimed at professional use Milwalkee scanner Bosch scanner . They both will detect electrical wires and some pipe, but you are on your own for proper interpretation.
One technique is to verify stud location is via drilling a short depth (not more than an inch to verify a stud)
Drilling in plaster: masonry bits or ceramic tile bits are the best to use to cut through the plaster with fewer cracks. Driving nails is a plea for cracks. The drill diameter should match the screw diameter, to not place stress on the plaster. The actual screw holding will be done by the stud.
Once a stud is located, wood screws should be imbedded 1/2" or more, depending on the weight. The earlier comment regarding a "buffer" board spanning the area is a good one, especially if the place you want to attach is between studs.
Finally, patching small cracks is not hard, use Durabond setting joint compound to mimic plaster.
Best Answer
Ideally you would follow the manufacturer's directions for mounting the drop down table to the wall. Also consider that the flat rail that is against the wall just under the table top area would be best if it could be screwed into the studs in the wall and not just through some thin wall board material.
This table at 79cm wide should be wide enough that the support board can span at least two studs in the wall. You may need to adjust the mount location in order to achieve that.