Walls – this white powder on the walls and around the plumbing

I'm not sure how long these walls are going to be, but here is a common method using wood studs, even though I still think steel framing would be better in your situation. First step is to secure 2X4's or 2X6's along a chalk line on the floor at wall placement position. This will be the first or two bottom plates. Transcribe location of obsticles onto this bottom plate using a laser or plumb bob. Lay out and scribe the corners, studs, jacks etc onto this plate. At this point you will know where conflicts with the pipes, vents and will be able to plan prebuilt wall sections around them. or areas where a horizontal needs to be added below the obsticle height to allow wall to be fitted. Now lay out your top and bottom plates against the now scribed secured bottom plate and transfer the layout marks to them. (Yes, there will be two bottom plates when you are done.)

Side note: using the fixed bottom plate allows easier and tighter fitting prefab walls to be lifted into place without the angle problem of lifting the wall and having to make the wall 3/4" short to compensate for the lift angle.

Now you can lay out the plates, studs etc and assemble the wall sections with a nail gun,or hammer (uggg) nailing studs through the bottom and top of the plates, so no toe nailing required. Because of your height, a rolling staging or scissor lift would be a great help. Lift the sections to vertical and slide them onto the pre-secured bottom plate. Flush them to this plate and nail the bottom. Now plumb the wall and nail to the ceiling, being sure to check plumb every few feet. This method will allow you to make several smaller wall sections and build around the pipes. Install horizontal nailers just below the pipes/vents etc.

I've had this problem and it gets passed up in inspection a lot of the time. I would build a separate box around these pipes, insulate and even use heat tape. Plumbing on an outside wall like this will freeze! Even a concrete outside wall 8" thick. Put the heat tape on a separate line so that you decide to turn it on when necessary. Insulation could be fiber glass, blown in insulation or even shredded newspaper. Newspaper is great insulation. I'd use something that is fire retardant for insulation if you use electrical tape.

How long ago was this installed? In Washington State, there is 12 years for discovery and getting something fixed by the general contractor no cost to you. There are ways for contractors to get out of this clause in Washington States laws but few understand the laws, even lawyers are clueless.

Check out the laws in your state. If you did not sign a contract that says, "Indiana's State law for warranty is superseded by this contract declaring a one year warranty to include labor and material..." then that contractor is obliged and has to abide by the warranty law in your state. Worth checking out. You have to hire a licensed plumber to fix this, you should not do it yourself because it might VOID the warranty protecting you.

I would hire a free lancing home inspector. Very reasonable costs! They work for you! Not the city or county.