filterwaterwater-filtration
With washable ceramic water filters, should they be washed regularly to improve longevity? Like this type:
My thinking is that if they're not washed, contaminants could get pushed deep into the core of the filter, making them harder to remove. Is my thinking correct?
I don't know if this is really an answer, but I've had a Coleman 6 person spa in service for about 25 years. Yes, 25 years! I have never had the same problems you are experiencing. We learned early on that any clothing (bathing suits etc) must be very clean and rinsed extremely well before going into the spa. Clothes cleaning detergents left in the fabrics release into the pool water and cause foam quickly. The clarifier is good at flocking these soaps, but they do tend to gum up the works quickly. We never lost a lot of pressure however, just had to clean the filter. We also made a habit of completely changing the water at least twice a year. After draining as much as we could via the drain hose, we used a wet vac to get as much out of any low spots. We then put in just enough water to cover the intake close to the bottom and jogged the pump to cycle clean water through the system and get the dirty water out. Again, drain and vacuum and repeat this process until the water looks clear. We do this with the filter out. This will clean out a lot of crap. About once a year just before we do a drain and complete cleaning, we treat the tub with anti-scale cleanser. This cleans the internal pipes of built up scale and solids. In your case, you may want to do this anti-scale treatment for a few days with the circulator on low and the filter out to purge the internal system. Then go ahead and change the water.
Another test you can do is to see how well the pump pushes water. When you have the small amount in the bottom, just above the intake, jets exposed, turn the jets to full, air off and see if the pump will shoot the water out of the jets with extreme force. Mine will shot water 20 feet away!!!! lol. If you don't have really good pressure, you may have a warn pump impeller. They can be damaged over time by chlorine based sanitizer, I never use chlorine, just bromine based shock etc.
The other item to check is if you have the right filter for your unit. Filters come in so many styles and densities. You may need to find one that allows better flow.
Assuming you find the root cause of your problem, good housekeeping, keeping as much contaminates as possible out of your tub will help. Very clean bathing suits or none at all,(yahoo) no body cosmetics such as body oils, moisturizers, perfumes etc. Keep chemical treatments to a minimum. Do a quick check weekly for PH, Total alkalinity, and bromine level. Adjust them sparingly so not to overdo any chemicals. Once you get everything under control, maintaining it is very easy and quick. Good Luck
I suspect you have a set-up like this?
You are concerned that when the water gets pumped back into the "water heater" it could possibly pollute your main water line?
The only thing I could suggest is putting a check valve on the "cold" water supply so that it can only supply fresh water. That is helpful if the pumps output pressure is higher than your supply pressure (This could happen on someday with low supply pressure or if you do not have main water pressure regulator)
In this situation the return is a dedicated port on the "water heater/boiler" and there should already be a check valve/pressure regulator/non return valve just before the water heater. So the rest of the house will run just on the cold water supply and never get any recirculation contamination.
Best Answer
Check with the manufacturer. Some have their own Kitchen Scrubby & others don't say anything about it, so you buy very much more frequently. My understanding & experience is that you want to scuff or sand the surface visibly clean. Basically, sand off anything that's been caught, since really nothing gets past the outer most surface. The outer surface just gets more crowded.
I'm on my 3rd sanding with a Pro-Pur & did 15 sanding's on a previous Berkey. I still have the Berkey as a spare & it probably has 30 or more sanding's left in it. It was working fine & at the same "good for so many gallons capacity" with no weakness or threat of collapse yet, but I wanted to try the Pro-Pur. In both cases, my slow drip was restored to the original quick drip & no taste or smell difference & a food coloring test reveals no difference.