Water – How to we get maximum life of a water well

You either have not enough air in the pressure tank or just not enough pressure tank - normally recommended to have enough capacity so the pump runs for at least a minute or two to refill it. One way to get an idea is to measure the volume of water that is drawn when you go from 55 to 30 PSI and compare it to a chart for your tank, or a tank of the same size. Using this pump calculator for a bladder type tank and your cut-in/cut out pressures, you should get about 7 gallons from a 20 gallon tank. If you get much less, you have an issue.

Another is to completely drain the water from the tank, and check the air pressure - if it's a bladder-type tank, it should typically have 28 PSI or so for a 30-lb cut in pressure. If the bladder is burst, it may have no pressure when drained. If it's a non-bladder type tank the explanation of how to maintain antique finicky things gets complex. I'd suggest replacing one with a bladder tank, and IME the same applies for a burst bladder (replacement bladder was most of the cost of a new tank, and the new tank came with a 5-year warranty, while the replacement bladder came with none. YMMV.)

If it's able to keep refilling the tank to 55PSI while you are using the hose, there's probably enough flow. If it's not merely a problem of insufficient pressure in an intact bladder tank, you can either replace a broken tank, add tank capacity, or try a "constant pressure valve" retrofit - essentially a leaky pressure regulator, where the tank would drop from 55 to 30 (unless adjusted to a different cut-in/cut-out), make its way back up to 45-50 or so and stay there as long as you were using water, and then rise to 55 (unless adjusted to a different cut-in/cut-out) and shut off when you stop using water. They claim you can use very small pressure tanks with them...

You can also reduce the extent to which you see pressure change at the hose by using a pressure regulator ($6 or so) on the hose, so that the hose only gets 25 or 30 PSI regardless of the pressure in the well tank, but that's an approach for after you sort out if your well system is working correctly.

If you are fundamentally opposed to (or trying to avoid paying taxes on) an aboveground structure, you could bury a vault to put at least a small pressure tank in. With use of a "constant pressure valve" or a variable-speed "constant pressure pump" you can get away with quite a small pressure tank (2-5 gallons) but you really can't run a pump without any pressure tank, at least not remotely efficiently (you could, I suppose, put a pressure-relief valve in the line at the top of the well, and run without a pressure tank - the excess pressure would recycle water down the well, but that's a terrible waste of power...)

If you really need water in the winter, bury the whole thing below frost line - one common method is to use 4 or 6 foot diameter concrete well tile (as used for shallow dug wells) placed over/around the drilled well casing to provide the frost-free vault - you can insulate the top and sides for better effectiveness. While you have a backhoe in to dig for that and the power line, dig some trenches below frost line to where you want to have hose spigots, and put "frost-free hydrants" at each one (they have a valve at the bottom, and leak away the water in the upright pipe between uses.) Might as well have the backhoe dig 100 holes for trees while you have it, too.

If not fundamentally opposed to a structure, an aboveground structure (small toolshed for the orchard) above the wellhead might be a less expensive approach, unless the local taxing authority makes it an expensive approach after all (that can happen, and is best to be aware of when deciding.) The area with the pressure tank can be heavily insulated and electrically heated to 45F or so if you really need water to hoses in freezing weather, or you can drain the whole system in the fall and start it up again in the spring if you don't really need to use water from hoses in the winter.