I recently got my drain tile replaced by professionals. They poured new concrete over the new drain tile. The thing that struck me as odd was that the weep holes are partially to fully above the level of the new concrete. I was under the assumption that weep holes were supposed to be drilled just above the footing to allow water to drain into the drain tile. After weep holes are drilled, it is then covered up with gravel, then the fresh concrete. Am I just speaking out of ignorance, or am I correct? Are weep holes supposed to sit above the floor level? If so, it looks terrible.
Water – Proper Height of Basement Weep Holes
basementconstructionwaterproofingweep-holeweeping-tile
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Well this is a pretty big deal because we don't know the cause.
First let's go over common reasons we get cracks on new floors.
- Soil wasn't properly compacted. Soil should be compacted with a rock bed on top.
- Bad mixing at site. Especially in the summer contractors pump too much water in the mix. The water makes the concrete weaker and it does crack easier.
- Bad mix at plant. Just a poor mix of materials coming in.
- Bad environment for mix. Too hot, rain, too long to site, whatever.
- They didn't cut the concrete or didn't cut it quick enough. The concrete needs to be cut (I suggest every 10x10 foot area) to allow for expansion. It really needs to be cut the first day.
- Didn't use rebar. This is a common cost cutter and I have seen rebar pulled before pour.
- House was built on unstable land. Could have been a landfill, could have springs underneath, whatever.
- Soil type wasn't conducive to their install method. Really too many things to list here but basically different types of soil expand and contract more due to moisture levels. Also it is possible that it was pushed even further by either a lot of rain or a drought.
Those are what I got off the top of my head. I am positive there are more reasons for cracks in your basement. If I were to totally guess I would say they didn't prep right in that corner - It seems like the corner is dropping on you already and maybe it wasn't floor wasn't compacted correctly. The crack starts on the outward "L corner" which is normal but heads right across the corner - most insignificant cracks in concrete tend to be straight. This crack has its shape for a reason.
What do I think you should do? First ask questions. See if the contractor knows why it cracked. "It happens" is not an answer. My reply would be "Me not paying you happens too." If the contractor/builder doesn't want to take blame (it is their fault) then you need to get a psi reading on the floor, measure its thickness, and also prove that the floor is rebarred/reinforced correctly. You will almost certainly need an engineer. Even if the problem is obvious your builder is less likely to move until it is proved from a creditable source.
You cannot sit on this. If the mix was bad - well did they use the same mix for the walls too? If it was bad prep, what happens when you have issues in a couple years? I have seen basements that have had to be repoured and it is a mess. Also will set you back 10K in the states.
Again, no matter what anyone tells you - cracks in a fresh floor are not acceptable. This is a sizable crack. Even if an engineer checks everything out I would demand a longer warranty on the basement floor and to have them seal it. Either that or they start over.
Note (based on additional pictures: I am not there so it is a bit of conjecture. But it is not a good sign when an area is relatively dry and you have a corner that is not only wet but it seems dropped too. It is a guessing game for me too at this point, not seeing what you have going on. My top 2 guess (and they are guesses) -
#1 - They dug and compacted. While digging they left over dug out that corner and then filled it. Then they never compacted it correctly. After it rained a few times, the corner started dropping. Also when I have a slab compacted the rock is part of the equation. I don't see any rock in your pictures.
#2 - You have some sort of natural underground current or spring. I have a stream that is 3 feet under, about a foot from my house - and I can't imagine if it where a foot over and 2 more feet down.
(Do you have any pictures right before they poured?)
To be on the safe side:
Contact a local plumber and request that he scope the drains.
Plumbers equipped with a snake camera can inspect the drains and tell you if there is any damage or blockage. I would highly recommend you go this route especially if you plan on finishing the basement. Do not put a floor over these holes until you know for sure what they are.
If you want to try and DIY, call a local hardware store that rents out these drain cameras. The draw back is that since you do not have the experience, if you find something questionable you'll need to contact a plumber anyway.
If you are really set on finishing the floors and are going to do it despite recommendations here be sure to leave some sort of access door / trap door in the event of flooding.
Good luck.
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Best Answer
My friend, you are in trouble.
I guess have a wet basement and wanted to keep it dry by diverting water to the subdrainage enclosed by the drain tile. Then you encased the drain tile in concrete in order to prevent the groundwater from getting into the drain tile and backflow into the basement. This scenario has several problems:
The concrete can crack, so the groundwater will get into it and flow back into the basement.
At certain times, the water at the discharge point could be higher than the elevation of the drain tile, then again, the drain line will be filled and backflow into the basement.
The water in the basement wouldn't drain or drains slowly due to the reasons above.
Most importantly, your wall wasn't designed for the hydrostatic pressure from the groundwater. Now as it has nowhere to go but stay still pushing against your wall, the wall can crack or even collapse depending on the height of the groundwater.
The correct ways to solve the problems of the wet basement:
If the local groundwater elevation is high, you shall keep/restore the drain tile, then waterproof the exterior face of the wall, and backfill with granular material. The finished ground shall be sloped away from the house.
Inside the basement, you shall install a drain pipe and slope the base slab towards the drain. The drain pipe shall end at a sump pit that pumps the water out automatically. The water shall be disposed into the stormwater line at grade level.
I suggest having an engineer look into your plan. But no weep holes, please.