That sounds like an overly complicated setup with far more pumps than it should need. Or else you said pump when you meant tank in two places, actually, re-reading it.
In short, you can have as many pressure tanks as you like. Locating them closer to the point of use (the house) would be helpful, to a limited extent. That limited extent is the "effective volume" of the pressure tank at the house - while it's got pressure, you get better pressure at the house. As soon as it runs out of water and you become dependent on the pump, the pressure loss of the 300 feet of 1" PVC to the house comes into play, until you slow down your water use to the point where the pressure tank at the house fills up again.
If you do not change the setpoint pressure, the peak water pressure in the house will not be affected at all. Once the pressure tank at the house is depleted, the pressure will be the same as it is now. If you have a pressure gauge at the house now (or can add one) it might be useful to know the pressure at the house when "loads of interest" (showers, say) are drawing water.
Most pump controls can be altered to have a higher setpoint pressure, and most well pumps will provide that, within reason. General recommendations are to stay below 80 PSI - but if you are now running your pump on at 20 off at 40 (a typical default) you could turn it up to on at 30 off at 50, or on at 40 off at 60 - you will need to adjust your pressure tank (and any you may choose to add) for the higher pressure, particularly if they are bladder-type tanks - with the system drained, a bladder tank should typically be 2 PSI less than the low water pressure setpoint (ie, 18, 28, or 38 for the three ranges I've just given) and you may need additional pressure tank volume (because the effective volume of water a pressure tank can hold goes down as the system pressure goes up.) So, you can probably get more pressure without another pump, and possibly without another tank, but we'd need more details of what your system is doing now to know that for certain.
Unless your water use is extreme, 300 feet of 1" PVC pipe should not have a lot of effect on the pressure - at 5 gallons per minute, about 2.2 PSI - at 10GPM, 8.2PSI, 15 GPM, 17.4 psi
Pressure
In a system fed from a header-tank, the pressure depends only on the height of the tank. To increase pressure you have only two or three options:
- Raise the tank higher.
- Install an electric pump (these are often used for showers)
If your header-tank is filled from a high-pressure municipal supply, you would probably get better pressure from that directly but in most places this would be a large job involving extensive knowledge of plumbing and local laws or codes. Your existing pipework and fittings might not be suitable for high-pressure.
Flow rate
The rate of flow is affected by
- pressure
- diameter of pipe
- length of pipe
Half-inch pipe is usually adequate for sinks, basins, showers etc.
Best Answer
You can reduce the output size with few problems except limiting the flow, pushing into a pressure tank will be better on the pump unless a variable frequency drive is used. Limiting the input can cause severe cavitation and damage the impeller and housing in a short period of time.
Normally a smaller size pump will cost less and have smaller ports, even using a 1/2” pump may have issues if your draw is larger than the supply this can cause a neighbors faucet when opened to suck air in.
In my area for systems that can not provide enough water we usually install a large tank like 500 gallons and put the booster on the out put of that tank, a simple float valve at the top of the tank stops the incoming water when the tank is full just like a toilet tank valve. I was thinking of a ball on a lever not a modern fluid master.
Size the tank based on several hours or daily water usage.