Sorry to hear about your "odor" problem. Maybe there is a local public fountain you can take a dip into!!!
However, the problems you describe are fairly common, but may be tricky to isolate. Let's try some basics:
Relieve the pressure from the bladder completely. Let the well pump fill the tank completely and bleed any air from the system using the faucets with the pump running. Again, with the tank full of water, close all outlets and charge up the bladder to about 60PSI. Most systems work fine between 45 to 65 PSI. Anything over 70 is pushing it. The tank needs to be charged when full, not empty.
Monitor the pressure as you draw water. Does the pump kick on constantly when the pressure reaches the low limit, and off at the high limit? This will help tell if the regulator is working properly.
Is there any pulsating water pressure at the faucets?
When you are sure you have a full tank, no air in the system, is your second floor water flow ample when the tank is reading 60psi?
There are a few "if's" here. Depending on how the pump behaves and the pressure responds, you have to determine if the problem is with the pump and volume of water being delivered to the tank, or if the pressure regulator is properly operating.
If you are still seeing any pulsating water pressure at the taps, then the bladder is water logged again. If the bladder pressure drops too quickly, then most likely the volume of water from the pump is low. The pressure should remain fairly constant at the tank if all the functions of the pump and regulator are working properly. Good Luck
Yes, that sounds defective.
A pressure regulator (which is what a PRV is) should stop flow when the pressure exceeds the setting. This sounds like you may have a small leak, which could be from debris trapped in the valve, a scratched valve seat or something like that.
Before spending money on it, determine if the PRV is your responsibility or the water company's responsibility. If it's theirs, they may just come swap it out for you.
Your described behavior (particularly the speed of it) would seem to be a leaky PRV. A slightly different case arises when there is a PRV (which also acts like a one-way or check valve) and a hot water heater, with no expansion tank - then the water pressure can rise when cold water is heated and no valves are open.
Best Answer
Sounds like the rubber diaphragm inside he pressure regulator has torn, or something is in the way.
To fix be sure you have: A pressure gauge 2 pipe wrenches able to open to about 1 1/2" Large channel locks could substitute for one above pipe wrench Water meter key Crescent wrench
And the parts. You need to find the metal tag on the regulator it will give you the model number and information about he valve.
You need to head to the local plumbing supply I'm not sure if you will be able to find the kit at a home inprovment wharehouse
You need a rebuild kit for a ####. Whatever model you have. They may ask the size of the regulator.
Once you have the kit. Shut the water off. If you have a gate style valve use the meter key at the meter instead.
Use the pipe wrenches to loosen the front packing (where the adjustment screw is ). Then break loose the two unions From there it's just a matter of replacing the diaphragm and spring. Then install. Don't forget to use plumbing silicone grease on the rubber parts and the gaskets in the unions
Put the gauge on the hose bib and slowly turn the water on not all the way just about 1/4 open. Check the pressure. Most regulators come set around 55psi this is recommended unless you have an RO system then I recommend upwards of 70 psi.