This might not be the answer, but for reference here is a problem that can occur if the plumbing is not installed properly.
If you look at Fig. 3, this is what a proper drain looks like. You'll notice the orange line represents the water level in the system, the water levels out in the trap preventing sewer gases from entering the sink drain.
In Fig. 1, you can see what will happen if the drain line has to go up before meeting the main drain line. Again the orange line represents the water level in the system, and as you can see the water level is much higher in the drain.
Fig. 2 shows what could happen if the sink was installed lower than the rise in the drain line. The water would never fully drain from the sink, since it would require extra pressure in the system to push the water up the drain.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ws9y4.png)
I wouldn't guess this is the issue in this case; since as you can see, if you opened the trap in this case you would have more water drain than what is typically in the trap.
In a perfect world Fig.1 and 2 would never pass inspection, but as we all know not all plumbing is properly installed and/or inspected. So this could possibly be the case in this situation (given the plumbing was installed by an amateur plumber), but it is doubtful. It would be more likely caused by a clog in the line.
The process for patching should similar to drywall, but with slightly different materials. I'd suggest using wood filler at the joint.
In more detail: first, get a new piece of plywood of the same thickness as the existing wall board. Then you need to attach your patch piece to structure. For this, you have two options.
- Cut away more of the existing plywood until you've exposed some structure you can fasten into.
- Cut some lumber to span the opening, and attach it using screws through existing plywood around the opening. Then cut your patch and mount it to the spanning pieces.
If the hole is only 6" wide, a small piece of 2x4 or even 1x2 and a plywood patch will probably cover you.
To seal the seams between your patch and existing plywood, use wood filler. Fill with a putty knife, sand flat, prime and paint. Assuming you can find a 4ft x 2ft plywood panel of the appropriate thickness, total materials cost should be around $20-$30.
Best Answer
Yep, PVC trim, Accent-strip Tile, Slices of a 12x12 (whatever size you desire) Tile or a sliver of Granite would probably be the best and not be problematic with future cleanings removing a finish or paint.
Or, you may want to reverse your thinking and frame around the entire mirror with a decorative PVC molding. This assumes the mirror is gapped all of the way around for the best look.