What this could be is that you have a slow leak from the floor above. Probably a water feed rather than a drain. Although it could be from the heating system if you have a water or steam system with radiators. When you turned the water on the house it started to drip, and the ceiling soaked it all up. Eventually the ceiling became saturated and started to drip onto the floor.
If you do have a slow leak then obviously you need to find the source. It's probably a leaky pipe joint, or maybe a loose compression fitting. The only way you're going to find it is to get access, as for how that completely depends on your house's construction. There may be a panel in front of the bath that can be removed, etc.
What you need to do is meticulously go through the whole bathroom above and look for any kind of access to pipes you see, and look for signs of dripping moisture, oxidation on the pipes, or hard water deposits. As it sounds like the whole ceiling needs to come down on the floor below do that first, then use that access to find your leak.
As for how to fix it if it's a compression fitting get out your wrench and have at it. If it's a solder joint or a bad pipe get a plumber in unless you have the tools and the experience. Good luck!
We did turn off the water last night and the power to the water pump and found that over a couple hours time we lost all the water in our reserve tank. Does this sound like a leak to you?
Maybe. Was the reservoir tank cut off (like with a valve) from draining back down the well? If there is a check valve, is it in good working order? If not, it is hard to say whether the reservoir fed a leak or just emptied back into the well.
To more definitively indicate if well water is causing the observed ground water, turn off the pump, close all the water valves (to prevent water flowing out of the pump house) and wait. Observe the ground water level every hour or two—maybe put in a stake or stick in the hole to better track it. Does the water go down? If so, a leak seems likely.
Leak detection
Doing a standard pipe pressure test would indicate quickly and conclusively identify whether there is a leak anywhere. It requires containing the pipe under test by closing valves or disconnecting and capping pipe, adding a gauge or other measuring device, and pressurizing the pipe, perhaps with a bicycle tire pump—a gas pipe pressure testing gauge has an air valve for this purpose; I haven't seen anything directly comparable for water pipes. Then just wait and watch. The pressure should remain, dropping no more than 5% per hour. (In my experience, temporary caps and a gauge for leak testing are the source of most pressure testing leaks. Generously apply plumbers tape.)
Finding a leak
If a leak is detected, then there are several choices to fix it find it and fix it. Which you choose depends on the specific situation, your budget, and your patience:
- dig up all the pipe to inspect for leaks
- abandon the existing pipe and install new
- Sherlock Holmes
The first two are self-explanatory. The third involves looking for clues. Can you isolate part of the system—the hot water portion is an easy and obvious example—and see if leak continues? Maybe there is another portion: outdoor faucets, sprinkler system, barn, etc. which can be individually cut off from the main system.
A leak is most likely to develop at a pipe joint and the location of joints are reasonably predictable. If the pipe is PVC for example, it usually comes in 10 foot lengths (at least in the U.S.—but if it is freezing where you are, probably you are south of the equator so some other length—3 m?—applies), so you only need dig a hole every pipe joint to check—at least with good luck.
Also consider any recent changes if it got worse: Has a fence post been installed or did a tree fall? Dig around there for to look for pipe.
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well we found the problem. lady up the street had a broken sprinkler. flooded into cable box and ran to our house. husband fixed the sprinkler now no more water.