bathroomsink
My contractor just installed a Delta Arzo Two Handle Widspread Lavatory 3586LF into a Kohler Persuade Curv top and basin lavatory, K-2956-8.
The problem is that the horizontal rod for the popup drain is not long enough to connect to the lifting rod strap. This is because the drain is too far from where the faucet is mounted in the sink.
What is the typical solution to this type of problem?
Much too much up and down! You want a P trap with an additional angled connector toward the wall.
The first down and up from the sink drain is correct. That is the P trap. It should end with a horizontal leg pointing toward the wall (an L shaped piece).
This will not line up with the opening in the wall because the drain is offset. Therefor that leg will run a distance and then will use an angle to bend it back toward the wall.
You could use a right angled slip joint connector (running horizontally).
A 45 degree angle would be better (the less sharp the bend, the less likely to stop up). However it may be hard to fine a 45 degree slip joint elbow. You could use standard pipes and elbows, but these would require glued joints rather than slip joints.
Finally there should be a straight run from the angled connector to the wall connection.
You can rotate the P part of the trap so the L leg coming off the P is parallel to the wall (assuming you are using the 90 degree elbow; if not, adjust accordingly). Then the elbow turns the drain toward the wall. Another horizontal run carries the drain back to the wall.
You need to measure the length of the horizontal leg of the P and the length of the connecting run to the wall; be sure to allow for the sections embedded in the elbow and trim each accordingly. Assemble.
It is easier done than described.
This is one of those places where a little bit of plumber's putty is indicated.
The problem is that there is little friction between the base of the faucet head fixture and the sink to resist the torque.
Roll yourself a pencil of plumber's putty about 1/4" dia and long enough to form a ring around the hole. Add a couple extensions straight out from the sides so it looks like the old US Airforce star and bar insignia. If you did it right you will get little or no squeezeout, the base plate will adhere to the sink and you now have a water dam so no moisture can get through the hole.
Operating the sink handle once you have the faucet assembly tightened down should no longer allow a twisting force against the fastenings.
Don't use silicone caulk to do this if you can help it. The sink outlasts several faucets and having to remove it from the sink is nigh impossible and looks pretty ugly when a new faucet has a footprint that exposes it.
Best Answer
EDIT: Niall C. suggested finding a replacement rod that fits. Home depot has a few sizes on-line, but they may have more in the store. I'd try this solution before custom-making one.
Depending on the design of the horizontal rod, you may be able to replace it with a length of steel rod with the same diameter.
From what I can tell of the parts diagram , you may be able to slide some hardware off of the original rod and back on to your custom cut rod of the same diameter. If the original rod is threaded at one end, you could get a tap and die set or see if threaded rod would work.