What hardware was used for this handrail? What would you use
handrail
My plan is to use a 2×4 instead of what you see there
here is where it will go
Update: here is how I plan to shape the 2×4
Best Answer
Well the first thing you could try would be to get your socket wrench and take that hardware fitting apart to see how it is made. Perhaps you could take it to a hardware store and ask for a match.
If you don't want to do that then try this. First, measure the outside diameter of that metal shaft. Then buy a piece of pipe and three washers whose outside diameters all match up exactly (and are about the same as that shaft). You will also need a wood spade or auger bit of the same diameter, to make the flat-bottomed countersink holes.
The pipe should be 1/2 inch longer than the distance you want behind the railing. The ends of the pipe should be flat and perfectly squared off.
Also get a hefty lag bolt. Use the thickest that will fit through your washers. Use the longest that won't go all the way through the vertical post.
Assemble and install the hardware like this:
The washers keep the metal hardware from punching into the wood. The close-fitting countersink holes keep the pipe and washers exactly lined up. The tension of the lag bolt together with the close fit of the countersink holes keeps everything from shifting or sliding around. The pressure of the washers against the hardwood contributes to the strength of the installation but most of the resistance to bending comes from the stiffness of the lag bolt.
I have used this pipe-and-washer construction to make a table and chairs. They didn't wobble.
Yes, you should add rebar across the joint between to old and new block wall. Do this by using a masonry drill (preferably a hammer drill) and drill 3-6" vertically down into the existing block wall top where the hole / rebar dowel will not be in the way of adding the next row of block. Best to use 1/2" or #4 rebar for this purpose and use the same size masonry drill bit to do your drilling. It's best to get the block cut and placed into position before you do the drilling to be sure there's no placement conflict between the intended new block layer and the rebar dowel holes to be drilled. Once you have them laid out on the wall then you can mark the hole's placement. I'd use a dowel in each corner hole and at least every other hole in the new block's run. Cut your rebar dowel length the depth of the drilled hole plus the block layer height minus 1-2" so they don't stick out of the new walls top. Fully insert the dowel into the drilled hole by hammering the rebar into the hole with a 2-3# mallet until they hit then end of the drilled hole.
*Rebar is meant to provide stability for the rigid concrete matrix or material. The reason you see rebar in bridges is that while the concrete provides a platform to drive on it's very rigid and will break apart if stressed past it's physical abilities. The rebar in the bridge keeps the concrete or matrix or material together and aligned in case of cracks in the concrete and strengthens the overall concrete structure with much less steel than in a conventional steel only bridge structure.
Best Answer
Well the first thing you could try would be to get your socket wrench and take that hardware fitting apart to see how it is made. Perhaps you could take it to a hardware store and ask for a match.
If you don't want to do that then try this. First, measure the outside diameter of that metal shaft. Then buy a piece of pipe and three washers whose outside diameters all match up exactly (and are about the same as that shaft). You will also need a wood spade or auger bit of the same diameter, to make the flat-bottomed countersink holes.
The pipe should be 1/2 inch longer than the distance you want behind the railing. The ends of the pipe should be flat and perfectly squared off.
Also get a hefty lag bolt. Use the thickest that will fit through your washers. Use the longest that won't go all the way through the vertical post.
Assemble and install the hardware like this:
The washers keep the metal hardware from punching into the wood. The close-fitting countersink holes keep the pipe and washers exactly lined up. The tension of the lag bolt together with the close fit of the countersink holes keeps everything from shifting or sliding around. The pressure of the washers against the hardwood contributes to the strength of the installation but most of the resistance to bending comes from the stiffness of the lag bolt.
I have used this pipe-and-washer construction to make a table and chairs. They didn't wobble.