fireplacegas
I already have a gas igniter for my fireplace and want to replace it with a gas log. While we do that, I'd like to also upgrade to whatever the latest safety features are for gas fireplaces.
First, I imagine this isn't a do-it-yourself job, is it? Assuming not, what kind of professional would I seek: a plumber? handyman? chimney sweep? fireplace store?
look at page 22 of the manual: http://www.heatilator.com/downloads/installManuals/4031-551.pdf
using a multimeter, check the voltage being sent to the valve while the fireplace is on, which should be the green and orange wires. the re-check it after you turn it off and the pilot is still on. if the on and off voltages are different, then your gas valve is faulty. if the voltages are the same, then your controller is faulty.
if the it's valve, do not replace it yourself. in nearly every jurisdiction, it is illegal for non-licensed people to do work on gas fixtures.
note that it might also be that you just never noticed that the pilot remains on for a brief time as it burns the residual gas in the line.
There is no way to convert a gas fireplace to burn wood, unless you are very lucky and the gas fireplace is an insert in a properly functioning solid fuel fireplace (in which case you basically just remove the insert, and have the fireplace inspected).
In situations like this, you have a couple options.
This option will require the least amount of work, though can still be quite expensive and time consuming.
You'll have to follow all local codes that deal with this type of project, but for this example we'll use National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) standards (NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances).
You'll need 36" clearance from combustible materials on all sides (top, left, right, front, and back).
You'll need a floor protector under the unit, that extends 18" in all directions (except up/down, that would just be silly).
The floor protection requirements will be provided by the manufacturer, for listed stoves.
For unlisted stoves, the floor protection requirements are determined by the length of the legs on the unit.
Stove must be placed on non-combustible floor.
4" hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation through the layer, covered with 24-gauge sheet metal.
Closely spaced masonry not less than 2", covered with 24-gauge sheet metal.
There are ways to reduce the clearances, by installing special materials around the stove. Check your local codes for methods to reduce clearances.
You'll need 18" clearance around the stove pipe, as well as a stovepipe thimble where the stovepipe passes through walls/ceilings.
If you don't have a proper masonry chimney to attach the stovepipe to, you'll have to use a factory built metal (A.K.A. prefabricated, Class A, all-fuel) chimney. You likely won't be able to use the same pipe used by the old gas fireplace. You also don't want to connect the stovepipe to the chimney used by your other gas appliances (furnace, water heater, etc.).
If you've got the cash and time, you could have a proper masonry chimney/fireplace built (or build it yourself). This option will require modifications to the building structure, lots of masonry skills, a healthy bank account, and a good bit of time.
Best Answer
I consider it a DIY project myself. However, it may be more ambitious than it seems at first.
Whether this should be a DIY is determined by obtaining and understanding the "building authority" requirements and regulations for your location. Maybe they say that a NFI professional must do the work. Or maybe they say "all work must be to X standard and inspected by Y".