Tightening bolts on the base of a toilet is the one thing about toilet installation that has me the most nervous. They say not to over-tighten, but how tight is too tight before the porcelain is subject to cracking? Do I tighten until I can't tighten anymore? Do I tighten it just before I think it's at its tightest?
When bolting down a porcelain toilet, how tight is “too tight”
boltsinstallationtoilet
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I was about to upvote the answer of @GreyBeardedGeek , because in general trying to find a match will be impossible. But then I read the word Toto. Toto is a different case: they have a corporate sustainability principle. The short answer is: call Toto at 1-888-295-8134. As for gaskets: one should come with the replacement tank, else is easy to get at any hardware store. Some PTFE plumbers tape is good also, if the supply line nut is metal.
And check the warranty also, it may apply depending on who you talk to at Toto:
TOTO warrants its residential faucets, bathroom accessories and cast iron tubs, excluding the acrylic side panel and accessories, (Product) to be free from defects in materials and workmanship during normal use when properly installed and serviced, for the lifetime of the Product from date of purchase.
The only real gotcha in this job is "don't drop anything". The tanks are made of ceramic and crack easily (not to mention do a bang up job on toes).
The only real gotcha in the warranty is that it is nominally non-transferable.
The best approach here is (as @DMoore mentioned in the comment) to pull the toilet out and re-seat it. Not only will this let you see if the ring is cracked, it will let you get the tile spacers that it is currently shimmed with out from under the toilet. Also, once a toilet starts rocking it is only a matter of time before the wax ring get moved around enough that it will start to leak. You'll want to replace it to ensure that it hasn't already been compromised.
I'm guessing that this is more a problem with the shims themselves than it is with the ring (but again, you need to verify this). Most of the tile spacers that I've worked with when laying tile are made out of nylon, and they are slightly compressible. So, every time you've put weight on the toilet it has deformed them a tiny bit until they became flat enough to let the toilet rock. Once you get to this point, even if the rocking is imperceptible it lets them start shifting around underneath and it snowballs from there.
Once you get the toilet up and make sure that the ring and bolts are OK, re-seat it with proper shims. You'll want something that can support quite a bit of pressure without deforming to shim it - I use composite plastic shims:
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Best Answer
I start by hand tightening as much as I can, then I tighten a little on each side and check if the toilet moves. If it does then I tighten a bit more, check and repeat until there's no movement. You're trying to avoid bowl movement, so that it doesn't shift or fall over, not to hold the floor up by the toilet bolts.
As tight as you can go will probably snap the porcelain (with a good socket you can torque a nut onto a bolt quite a bit). Until you think it's about to snap is just guessing.
Snug. No movement. Enjoy.
"Too tight" is a sixteenth of a turn past where the porcelain snaps :-)