Three fluorescent lights in my garage just stopped working. So here's the set-up: 2 switches, 3 fluorescent lights. Switch 1 has hot wire, travelers go to switch 2, switch 2 feeds all three lights. I am getting current to switch 1. I have changed out both switches, double and triple checked the way they are wired. I even put in a single pole at switch 1, and nutted the wires at switch 2 (tried each traveler pair) still no light. Checked all three lights to make sure connections in fixtures had not worked loose. Everything okay. What am I missing?
Wiring – 3 way switch that stopped working
wiring
Related Solutions
Can I install the timer in place of this switch and tie the load side of the timer with both travelers leaving the box?
Yes (probably) and no. Unless the timer pulls an amount of current that would put the circuit over 80% of the 15 A supplied by the breaker (12 A) you can install the timer on the original circuit but don't tap the travelers together.
You can't run 14 AWG wire in parallel, which would be the case if you tapped them together. This is done when dealing with larger wires where the cost factor compared to additional ampacity isn't economical.
NEC 310.10(H) Conductors in Parrallel
(1) General
Aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or copper conductors, for each phase, polarity, neutral, or grounded circuit shall be permitted to be connected in parallel (electrically joined at both ends) only in sized 1/0 AWG and larger where installed in accordance with 310.10(H)(2) though (H)(6).
Note: You can actually run conductors smaller than that in parallel. Those exceptions don't seem to apply here.
Is an alternative to cap the red traveler, install the timer in place of the first line-side three-way, and use the black wires throughout the circuit? This would leave the second load-side three way as a dummy?
Yes, this is the correct thing to do based on the above information. However, I wouldn't leave a dummy switch there. Just remove the switch and replace its cover with a blank plate.
Is there another option?
Well, there's a couple additional options depending on current and future plans for operation.
- If the device is capable and there's a need, you can use the red as a second timed leg. This would give you the ability to use it for some future fixtures. Obviously, additional work would be done.
- You could use the black for a constant hot and the red for the switch leg and use the black to feed a single-pole switch as sort of an override. The timer would turn them on whether the switch is on or not, and the switch could turn them on without manually switching the timer circuit any time you need.
Since the existing install is using black wires as grounded (neutral) conductors, you should start by rewiring the original circuit to be code compliant.
Then you'll wire the new dimmers in like this.
With the dimmers installed, you'll have something like this.
You'll notice that T2, that runs from F to DD is not labeled. This is because I'm not sure which wire it is in your photos.
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Best Answer
I'd have to go with the ballast of the first light (that switch 1 runs to) has died and needs replacement. However, tube-fluorescents have terrible socket connections and I've seen earthquakes, rumbling trucks, direct impacts and power surges kick them askew.
If you have tubes, then start with number 1 in just giving the bulbs a little twist to see if they pop on...yours may work in pairs-only, so you get one to flicker and then twist the other to get them both solid.
If so, then just do the same to the other 2 fixtures. If not, then a new ballast should remedy the situation.