It entirely depends on how the existing switch is wired. You need a constant hot and a neutral wire. It would be helpful if you can check what wires are in each location - what colors, and how many actual cables are coming in. You'll need to turn off the power at the breaker panel and physically remove the switches (don't disconnect them, just pull them out), as well as the light fixture. Compare to the diagrams below (or at the original source), or ask here again and we'll try and help you out (labelled pictures == very helpful).
There are several ways to wire 3-way switches, but what you'd be concerned with is the type where power comes to the switch first:
In the above diagram ,you can add another switch to the one on the left - you'd connect to the white and black wires coming from the "power source" line.
On the switch on the right, you have a neutral, but you don't have constant hot -- hot is switched, on either the red or black, depending on how the first switch is flipped.
Another common way the switches are wired is the power goes to the fixture first.
In this case, there is no neutral at the switches. (Also note, the black tape on the white wires indicates this. White is, by code, always neutral, and has to be marked if it's used for a switched circuit. That said -- keep in mind that not everyone follows code.)
If you're missing the hot/neutral, the only option you have is to run a totally new wire, or possibly (depending on how it's wired), you can convert the 3-way to a single switch, and then re-purpose the wires to supply constant hot and neutral to the new outside switch (effectively, one of your 3 way switches would get converted to control the outside light instead). This still may not be possible, and definitely isn't a beginner task - you need to understand electrical fairly well, and map out everything involved with this circuit.
Three way switches offer a convenience that is sometimes not appreciated until you eliminate them and then are living without them.
One thing to consider if you are trying to split these four light fixtures into two in order to have times when your whole kitchen is not blaring in full light is to consider a different approach. You could replace these two 3-way switches with 3-way type dimmer switches.
This could give you want you want, reduced lighting, whilst being able to use the existing in place wiring. Depending upon device selection you could also get the ability to control the lights remotely.
Best Answer
No, you cannot extend the circuit from that location. You could extend the circuit from the first switch location, or run additional wires to the second switch location.
The location you've highlight lacks a grounded (neutral) conductor, and an unswitched ungrounded (hot) conductor.