Can you extend a #10 bare copper ground with a irreversible crimp? and could you run it through 1" PVC conduit? What codes will back up either way. I know you cant have a splice in a location that you can not access but what if its a irreversible crimp?
Wiring – Can you splice a #10 bare copper ground with a irreversible crmp
groundingwiring
Related Solutions
Of the options you are considering, I'd think option 2 makes more sense, and 4-5 feet of conduit - in most cases the conduit will just be continuous from the junction box right through the wall, no particular fuss "as it enters the house" - Come down the wall, put on an LB, drill a hole in the wall, insert conduit, connect to junction box, connect to LB; done. This might be aided by drilling at least a pilot hole from the inside out to make lining it all up easier. Also pick up some duct seal (gray putty, in the electrical aisle) to pack the wires as they leave the LB.
If the wires are entering via an existing conduit, you just need to connect a new conduit to the box that conduit terminates in, and your junction box.
EMT or PVC is six on the one hand, half a dozen the other. I use metal aboveground and PVC below, mostly.
Each of the 'conduits' as you say, have an uninsulated ground conductor. If there are three such 'conduits' then there has to be a splice joining them. Add your ground there.
I've installed many insteon devices before. The first thing I do, and my best advise, is to spread out all the wiring after removing he old switch and before installing the new, to know absolutely what you have to work with.
If you absolutely have to connect to a ground without cutting and splicing the original, I would recommend a split bolt.
It's going to look weird as hell in an outlet box, but if you thoroughly clean/abrade the existing ground so it makes good contact, a split bolt should do the trick
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Best Answer
You can make that splice in any junction box. You will need to leave the usual amount of spare wire that any junction box splice requires, e.g. 6" beyond the end of conduit and 3" beyond the wall surface.
You cannot make the splice then pull it into conduit to reside in the pipe between junction boxes, unless you are using a splice method specifically UL-listed for that purpose; I expect none exist.