Conversion is too soft a word for what will have to be done, it is more than likely going to be a rework.
Somethings you need to figure out:
I would like to add a ceiling fan/light to one of the receptacles
A ceiling fan is far heavier than a recessed can light and thus needs additional support. The recessed light box will need to be replaced with a special box that braces itself into a ceiling joist or into a wooden block between two ceiling joists. Looking at how the recessed light box is being fastened into the ceiling will tell you how to do this.
and convert the other to a track light with its own light switch control.
This can be done but even in the best case scenario, you will need to run an additional cable from the switch gang box to one of the luminaires. This is of course assuming that the cable coming from the breaker is coming into the switch box.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKIIb.jpg)
It becomes more complicated if the power to the breaker is coming into one of the two lights. In this instance you would need to run a 3 wire and ground cable from the switch box to the light with the power line coming in:
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oa8Lq.jpg)
NOTE: All of this of course is assuming that if one of these happens to be a fan/light combo, then the fan and light will be wired to turn on with a single switch, rather than separate switches for each function.
NOTE 2: This also assumes that you have already have a double gang box for installing two switches. If you do not have one then you will need to open up the wall and install one.
NOTE 3: The following diagrams assume equipment grounds are properly wired throughout.
I am assuming that the upper wire is the cable that goes to the ceiling where the fan/light is to be installed. If so, you should have a red wire in the ceiling box that is unused and probably capped with a wire nut.
Your description of the switch box seems a little off. If all three black wires were connected together, what wires go to the switch?
More than likely, one of the lower black wires is the hot source, and it is connected to the other lower black to power another box, and is also connected to the existing switch. The upper black was probably also connected to the switch asn was hot when the switch is on and not hot (open) when the switch is off. The whites are all neutrals and all should be connected to each other (and not to the switch).
You can install a double switch or two separate switches in the box to separately control the fan and light. The lower hot black goes to the common on a double switch or one pole on each of the two switches. The upper black goes to the other side of the first switch and the upper red goes to the other side of the second switch. Effectively, these switches share an "in" but have separate "outs".
In the switch box, all of the whites (neutrals) continue to be connected.
At the ceiling box, the white goes to white, the black goes to the wire for either fan or light, and the red goes to the other. The fan wire colors may vary, but the instructions should indicate which is which.
You make no mention of green or bare wire (ground). In a modern, properly wired system, there also should be these, both from each cable and at the fan. Ground wires are connected together and to the base of devices, switches and metal boxes or fixtures. If they are present, connect them. If they are not, you have an ungrounded system that poses a bit of risk if a device is damaged or shorts out.
![fan/light switch](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhIFb.png)
Best Answer
First thing you'll have to do is determine where the wire from the switch is going. I'm guessing that all those lights,fan, and receptacle are just daisy-chained with the switch interrupting the neutral inside a fixture box or separate junction box. (Why, why, why?) If you make the existing switch control only the ceiling fan, you'll of course, need to decide where you want to add a switch or switches to control the others. Additional wiring may involve crawling in the attic if there is one, drilling top plates, and dropping wire to new switch locations. That's the best I can offer given the vagueness of the problem as described. I will add that, if necessary, you could probably rent a toner and probe to trace wiring (with circuit breaker turned off). Or, more practical, find the suspected other end of the switch wire, disconnect it, and gently wire nut the pair together and then check with a multimeter for continuity at the other end to confirm that's your wire. HTH