First off. The only way to provide proper "grounding", is to install a grounding conductor from the panel to each outlet. Providing AFCI and GFCI protection to the circuits is helpful, but these devices will not provide "grounding".
If you switch from 2-prong receptacles to 3-prong on these circuits, you should not connect anything to the grounding screw of the receptacles. You should also (technically) install labels at each outlet that read "GFCI protection" and "No Equipment Ground". Though, these labels aren't common in residential situations.
- Replace GFCI breakers with CAFCI breakers and add GFCI receptacles to the first-outlet on each circuit.
This is probably going to be your best bet. In this scenario, the CAFCI breaker provides protection to the entire circuit. The GFCI protection being at the first outlet, means that while the wiring from the panel to this location is not protected, the rest of the circuit is protected.
- Keep GFCI breakers and add AFCI receptacles to the first-outlet on each circuit.
This isn't a terrible option, although the AFCI device will not be protecting the wiring between the panel and the device. Also note that an AFCI device only detects line to ground arcs (parallel arcs), while a CAFCI device detects both line to ground and line to line arcs (parallel and series arcs).
- Replace GFCI breakers with Dual Function AFCI/GFCI breakers.
If you could actually find these (and could afford them), this would probably be your best course of action. Unfortunately, these devices probably don't exists (yet) from most manufacturers.
Uh-oh. Your voltage (hot to neutral) should not be 130V anywhere except a few countries where 127V is common.
Start by measuring across the two hot "legs" in your panel. This value should be 220-240V, tending toward the latter, e.g. 238V.
Now measure each leg to neutral, these should be very close to half that, and very close to each other, e.g. 118-120V.
If they are not, but the two values add up to the first number, you have a very dangerous condition called a "lost neutral": the two "hots" are good, so 240V machines are happy. But the "neutral" is floating, and voltage on each leg is going to vary all over the map as the loads change, e.g. 171V and 67V, which will cause your appliances to catch fire. If you have this, shut off the main breaker now and unplug everything 120V or 120/240 until you fix it for good.
In light of your dryer error, a more likely possibility is that you have lost a leg of "hot". In this case, all the 120V circuits on that leg will be out, while the ones on the other leg work fine. 240V-only appliances will not work. 120/240 appliance controls may work, but the heaters won't. This is not an emergency in the same way as a lost neutral.
You may be having this problem with your entire house, it may have only appeared first at the pool. I gather your dryer is not at poolside.
The answer for any kind of "lost" wire is to give the panel a thorough take-apart and inspection. Look for loose screws (prticularly on heavy-wire lugs), corroded or arced contacts on breakers, burnt busbar, etc.
If you have a smart meter, good chance the power company can turn it off remotely using their SCADA system with a phone call.
White to green: In a properly wired house to code, with the main breaker off, resistance between neutral and ground should be as close to zero as your meter can detect. Voltage should be zero obviously. However, if any circuit is on, all bets are off. Voltage may be somewhat more than zero (but not more than 6 volts), which will make it impossible to measure resistance.
Best Answer
A visual inspection of a tripped residential breaker is not likely to reveal that it has tripped. Tripping happens internally and does not usually move the lever visibly.
Instead, feel the breaker handles by giving each lever a slight nudge toward the "off" position. Those that are "on" will resist being moved. A tripped breaker lever will easily move. To reset it, turn it all the way "off" and then "on".