I live in the US and own a few appliances (mostly audio) that are European, designed for 220V and don't have a built-in converter to deal with 110V. I'd like to find a way to use these in my condo, for which all regular sockets are on 110V.
My understanding is that heavy appliances like heaters (and ovens, etc.) are wired on 220V and that my condo already has 220V. I have two rough plans.
First plan:
- the heating is forced air — it must be running on 220V
- as such, there must be a live wire with 220V running to the heating vent
- I should be able to pop the cover, find the 220V wires, and expose right next to the vent a 220V socket, with schuko to avoid mistakes
- this will be more efficient than having a 110/220 converter running constantly.
Second plan:
- I have a socket that I'm happy to flip to 220V + schuko, also standing fairly close to the electrical panel
- there must be a guide wire running from the electrical panel to that socket
- I should be able to pull a wire for that socket that is on 220V.
Question 1: does any of the plans make sense, and if so, which would be easier? (I may be missing assumptions on US wiring, quality of current, etc.)
Question 2: my panel says "circuit directory: 120V/208V". I'm surprised by the latter (208V instead of 220V). Can I still run audio appliances off of that? This seems on the low end of the tolerance spectrum.
It goes without saying that I would contract a professional electrician to do that; but before, I'd like to know if any of this makes sense. Thanks!
Best Answer
Power service to your building includes a 3-phase, 208-volt, wye (or star) distribution system. That provides 208 volts between any two of three phase terminals and 120 volts between any phase terminal and the neutral terminal. Any one condo in the building would be served by two phase conductors and a neutral conductor plus a protective earth (ground) conductor that is connected to neutral at the service entrance. This system is used in some commercial and multi-unit buildings in the US, but it is somewhat uncommon.
If you have loads that rated to operate on 208 V, 60 Hz, it makes sense to install 208-volt receptacles for those loads if it is not too expensive. The equipment should be marked with a voltage range and frequency. If is says something like 200-240V, 50/60 Hz or 47-63 Hz, the equipment is ok for 208V, 60Hz. You can probably not use any existing wiring, because it is likely protected by larger circuit breakers than would be permissible for lower current receptacles and loads. In addition, the existing circuits are intended to serve certain loads. An electrician can tell you what is involved and the cost of the wiring. In addition to that cost, there may be repair of plaster and painting required for any openings made by the electrician. An electrician would not usually do that repair.
Read you condo association documents, wiring may be owned in common, not owned by the unit owner. Your individual ownership may be only the paint on the walls inward. In addition, any wiring must conform to the local electrical code and all receptacles are more than likely required to conform to Underwriters Laboratory (UL) standards. Code may not allow a schuko receptacle.