Wiring – How to install a ceiling fan with an extension kit that doesn’t have a ground wire

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I bought a ceiling fan and it came equipped with the standard three wires sticking out of the motor. The instructions said the ground wire must be wired to the ground wire of the ceiling wire box. But there is no ceiling wire box, so I bought a fan extension kit to wire up to the fan and plug it into a wall outlet.

The extension, which I bought at Home Depot, was clearly marked "Ceiling Fan Swag Light Kit" but it came with NO ground wire, just the standard two-wire plug. Both the sales assistant and I looked everywhere for a ceiling fan extension kit that had the three wire ground arrangement, but none was available anywhere.

How can this be? How can ceiling fan extension kits be sold without a ground wire, when all ceiling fans, indeed most appliances today, require a ground wire connection? And is it possible to wire up the fan to an ungrounded extension so that the shock hazard is still eliminated?

Best Answer

Code doesn't require grounding for the fan because you're not really installing permanently in the structure, you're using it as a removable appliance.

If you want to ground it anyway, buy high quality aesthetically pleasing braided copper grounding wire, and weave it through the chain along with the original cable.

Connect it normally at the fan box, and at the outlet, either cut the plug off and add a replacement plug, or terminate the ground wire with a spade connector and use the outlet's cover plate screw to secure it in place.

You could improve the situation by replacing the outlet with GFCI or using an inline GFCI protector. Both overkill if you ask me.

Grounding Conductor

If the building was renovated/built in 2008, it's not likely the circuit does not include an ground conductor. However, there are multiple ways to satisfy the grounding conductor requirement according to NEC 2008 250.118.

A copper, aluminium, or copper-clad aluminum conductor.
Rigid metal conduit.
Intermediate metal conduit.
Electrical metallic tubing.
Listed flexible metal conduit meeting specific conditions.
Listed liquidtight flexible metal conduit meeting specific conditions.
Flexible metallic tubing meeting specific conditioins.
Armor of Type AC cable as provided in 320.108.
The copper sheath of mineral-insulated, metal-sheathed cable.
Type MC cable where listed and identified for grounding in accordance with specific criteria.
Cable trays as permitted in 392.3 and 392.7.
Cablebus framework as permitted in 370.3.
Other listed electrically continuous metal raceways and listed auxiliary gutters.
Surface metal raceways listed for grounding.

Checking for a Grounding Conductor

The most accurate way to verify whether or not there a proper ground connected, would be to check for continuity between the junction box and the grounding electrode system. In most situations this is not an option, so another test must be performed.

Checking Continuity to the Grounding Electrode System

To run this test you'll either have to be within reach of; or be able to run a lead to, the grounding bus in the main service panel.

Set your multimeter to the continuity setting or the lowest resistance setting.
Place one lead on the grounding bus bar in the load center.
Place the other lead on the junction box under test.

If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the load center are electrically connected. This means there is a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the load center are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.

Checking Continuity to a Known Good Ground

If you have a known good ground nearby (from another circuit, for example), you can use this ground to test for an equipment ground at the box in question.

Set your multimeter to the continuity setting or the lowest resistance setting.
Place one lead on the known good ground.
Place the other lead on the junction box under test.

If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the known good ground are electrically connected. This means there is a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the known good ground are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.

Check Continuity to the Grounded Conductor

If neither of these options are available, the next best option is to check for continuity between the box and the circuits grounded conductor (neutral). These two conductors should be electrically connected (bonded) at the main service panel, so checking continuity between them can (usually) determine if there is an equipment ground.

WARNING: This method relies on the circuit being installed correctly. If the grounded conductor (neutral) is (incorrectly) connected to the grounding conductor anywhere along the circuit, this test may give invalid results.

Set your multimeter to the continuity setting or the lowest resistance setting.
Place one lead on the grounded conductor (neutral).
Place the other lead on the junction box under test.

If the meter beeps or gives a reading close to 0, the box and the grounded conductor (neutral) are electrically connected. This means there may be a proper grounding conductor installed. If the meter does not beep or has a reading of infinity, the box and the grounded conductor (neutral) are not electrically connected. You'll have to install an approved grounding conductor throughout this circuit, if you want proper grounding.

NOTE:
All continuity testing should be carried out while the circuit is dead. Shut off power to the circuit at the breaker before working on the circuit, and verify the circuit is off using a non-contact voltage tester.

_{Electricity is dangerous and can lead to property damage, injury, and death. If you do not feel comfortable working with electricity, please contact a qualified Electrician.}

Electrical – Is ceiling fan missing grounding wire from the ceiling box, and is this safe

In a perfect world, with perfect electronics, there would be no need for a grounding conductor. It's there to deal with imperfections. The most likely case for a ground fault in this installation would be if the black conductor lost some insulation and shorted itself against the frame of the fan. In such a situation, the casing could become electrified, and a grounded person, touching the fan body could receive a shock.

If it were properly grounded, you'd get a short circuit to the ground wire, and the breaker would trip.

However, the fan is mounted to the ceiling, and the possibility of someone touching it is low. (Unlike, for example, the frame of a fridge or stove, where human contact is part of normal operation.)

So, Is it safe? Quite likely. For added safety, turn the wall switch off when changing bulbs. Is it to code? No. -- Unless, as others have suggested in comments, the mounting box is grounded on the other side.

You can however, locate the breaker, and replace it with a Ground Fault Interrupt breaker, which would trip should a ground fault occur. This isn't something you should do yourself unless you have experience working in the panel.

Another possibility, if your switch happens to be chained off of an outlet, which is quite possible, depending on the routing of the wiring on that circuit, is to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet, and wire the switch to the load side of it.