Wiring – Keeping hot tub (spa) circuit line inside attic properly

Deltaray,

I have a Hotsprings Grandee 220V. I've experienced a few power related issues. Here are my thoughts:

1. Makse sure the thermostat is set higher than 70 degrees. Should be a no brainer but you never know.

2. Make sure the breaker for the heater is on. Mine has 2 breakers in the sub panel, one for the heater and one for the pumps and electronics.

3. Try resetting everything. Turn off the breakers, let it site for a minute, turn the breakers back on.

4. On mine the cover for the control box is easy to open with a screwdriver. Turn off the breakers and open the control box. Examine the wires that go to the heater. Make sure they are attached.

5. Mine also has a fuse or two on in the control box. Look to see if they are blown.

6. The heaters do not last forever. They are pretty simple to replace, especially if you already have experience replacing the circulation pump.

7. If you are comfortable with electricity it is easy to see if the heater is getting power at the control box. Use a volt meter to check for voltage.

8. If the circulation pump was not working, the heater could have overheated. Look for a reset button, or if you know the heater is getting power, replace the heater.

When the heater is working you should feel hot water coming out of the drain vent. Your electric meter should also be spinning pretty fast. My Grandee takes a few hours to heat up, but you should feel the hot water almost immediately.

What year/model do you have? 110V or 220V?

It's difficult to tell from the photo if there's even a grounding conductor run along with the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, so you'll have to verify that before you go shopping for supplies. You'll also have to verify that the ungrounded (hot) conductors are the proper size. You said the panel is fed through a 60 ampere breaker, so you'll need at least 6 AWG copper conductors (solid or stranded, it makes no difference).

Shopping

Here's what you're going to need.

• A grounding bus bar.
• 6 AWG copper THWN wire with white or gray insulation, long enough to reach from the main grounded (neutral) bar to second panel grounded (neutral) bar.
• 6 AWG bare or green copper conductor, long enough to reach from the main grounding bar to the second panel grounding bar (which you'll install).

If the current ungrounded (hot) conductors are undersized, you have a couple choices. You can replace them, with appropriate conductors. Or you can install a smaller feeder breaker in the main panel, and down size the grounded and grounding conductors accordingly.

Installation

Once you have the supplies, here's what you're going to do.

• Remove the brass bonding screw from the existing bus bar in the second panel.
• Install the grounding bus bar (the one you purchased), in the panel.
• Move all the grounding conductors from the old grounding bus, to the new grounding bus bar.
• Pull the required conductors between the panels.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the main panel.
• Connect the grounding conductor to the grounding bar in the main panel.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.
• Connect the grounding conductor to the new grounding bar in the second panel.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) pigtail from the GFCI breaker, to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.

Now you should be all set.

NOTE: Depending on where the second panel is installed. You may need to install a grounding electrode, and bond the panel to it. Check with your local building department, to determine if this is required.