You will need to have to provide proper strain relief of the flexible cord that drops down:
(from the NEC)
*368.56(B) Cord and Cable Assemblies. Suitable cord and cable assemblies approved for extra-hard usage or hard usage and listed bus drop cable shall be permitted as branches from busways for the connection of portable equipment or the connection of stationary equipment to facilitate their interchange in accordance with 400.7 and 400.8 and the following conditions:
(1) The cord or cable shall be attached to the building by an approved means.
(2) The length of the cord or cable from a busway plug-in device to a suitable tension take-up support device shall not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft).
(3) The cord and cable shall be installed as a vertical riser from the tension take-up support device to the equipment served.
(4) Strain relief cable grips shall be provided for the cord or cable at the busway plug-in device and equipment terminations.
Strain relief solutions are generally in the form of a metal finger-trap cages that tightens when the cable is pulled. for example:
First, those outlet testers are a mess in a dress. Not the tester, that's simple enough, it's just 3 lights across the 3 pins. But the legend, and all the silly things it says, is about as helpful as a magic 8-ball.
The light labeled "open ground" measures across the power blades. The other yellow light measures between hot and ground. The red is between neutral and ground.
You said you plugged in something, but didn't say what the load was. A little bit of voltage between neutral and ground is actually OK. Neutral is not ground. If such a low voltage sets off your tester, it's too sensitive. Otherwise I'd look for a wiring problem in the neutral.
Are you using screw terminals, backstabs, or poke-and-tighten-screw? Are you doing it monkey tight, not gorilla tight?
Just so you know, people, especially inexperienced people, find backstabs are not reliable. In many circuits they are not even legal. I avoid them entirely.
Sometimes, the screw terminals on the side of a receptacle will strike against the side of the outlet box, or hit the bare ground wire. Often this will only happen when the weight or strain of a cord is bending the outlet. A cure for that is to wrap several loops of electrical tape around the perimeter of the outlet, i.e. Over the screws.
Best Answer
You lost a neutral somewhere between that outlet and the panel.
The hot wire reads "hot" because you did not lose the hot; it really is hot.
The neutral reads "hot" because either there, or downline, there is at least one load plugged into the receptacle. This load connects the neutral to the hot, making the neutral hot too.
Follow the outlet chain back toward the main panel and find the first place it is dead (nearest to panel) and last place it still works (farthest from panel). Then disassemble and check both those places. The problem will be there.
The usual cause is a "back stab". Get rid of those.
This is not an emergency, because neutral is considered a conductor and is carefully insulated the same as a hot -- now you see why. On the other hand, if someone was bootlegging ground, this would be super bad news.
"How can the load pull the neutral up to 120V? Normally it drops (reduces) the voltage from 120V to zero." That's true, the load limits current with a fairly high resistance However, the circuit is broken so zero current is flowing. What happens in that case? Ohm's Law tells the tale:
Normally the load flows, say 2 amps across 120V, so E=120, I=2 and R =
R is 60 of course, and that is a physical characteristic so it won't change. But with the broken circuit, current is zero, so look what happens to voltage drop:
That's right, E is 0, so the voltage drop between the load's hot and neutral will be zero. Since hot is 120V, so then must neutral.