Wiring – Replacing chandelier

Both switches are single pole. The one with the red wire is going to 1 fixture, and the one with the white is going to a second based on the photos with the hot being the common black. A non-contact volt meter may show power on the wires that is not really there with a load. This is called inductive coupling and happens when a hot wire is run in close proximity to a second wire (this is how transformers work).

This won't be too hard to figure out. Notice that one of the cables black white & ground come in together. With the power turned off connect both blacks together and the light fixture to the 2 whites. Turn the breaker on and the light switch on the right hand side will control this light.

If you would like to figure out the true feeder with the power off connect a light to 1 set of black & white wires of the same cable if the light comes on with the power restored this is the feeder. If the light doesn't come on this is a switch loop and the black is usually tied to the hot or line side of the feeder and the return from the switch is on the white.

I cannot believe that the ceramic ceiling connection block is to be removed unless it would be replaced with another one.

I would expect that the metal bar is to be held with screws through some of the pairs of holes in the ceramic block penetrating into the wood structure above. I see what looks like breakaway covers over extra holes just outside the ones with the brass wood screws. What is the distance between those holes? What is the distance between the slots in the metal bar? Are these the same?

EDIT

Yes, I am referring to the two on the same line as the holes with the brass wood screws with are being used to hold the connection block. I believe that the projections on the ends of the bar go up toward the ceiling. If the slots in the mounting bar are the same distance as the inner pair of holes, you could break away the covers on the outer holes and shift the brass screws to those outer holes. Then use the inner holes to secure the mounting strap. If there is not enough clearance for the wires (with the projections on the bar projecting up), you'd have to get some spacers.

EDIT2

Another possibility would be to drill two new holes further out in the mounting bar. You should find out how this type of ceiling fixture is normally installed in the UK. This is not something to try to puzzle out on your own.

EDIT

Looks like I was completely wrong! See this video for installation in the UK. Video

EDIT

It could be that one could remove the ceiling rosette temporarily to place the bar against the ceiling (end tabs down of course), then replace the rosette on top of the bar. The fact that the slots in the bar would line up with the holes in the rosette suggests that this was intended as a possibility. This would allow the use of the connection block instead of getting a bunch of individual connectors for the various wires. I don't know if the UK fixtures have enough clearance under the shroud for the rosette and whether this is a practice in the UK. To do this one would place the bar on the ceiling so that the mounting slots line up with the existing holes in the ceiling then mark the countersunk hole for drilling a pilot hole and secure the bar to the ceiling with a single screw in the countersunk hole in the bar, then secure the rosette over the bar through the lined up holes of rosette and bar.