I purchased a used Jenn Air Cook top range (model c238b-c) to replace an older existing one (c221-c). Both units are the typical counter top with 2 slide-in double cook top element carthridge, and identical wiring diagram for both units.
The only difference is the colours of wires in the main wiring connection harness to the junction box.
The old existing connection had:
– red and yellow wires connected Red wire (from 220v cable to fuse box),
– black and blue wires connected to Black,
– White to White,
The new connection harness has 2 red wires and 2 black wires. So I'm assuming the obvious which is the 2 reds connect to the red and 2 blacks to the black.
Everything is working except for 1 element. When I turn that 1 element on, both the mini reset breaker on the range control box and main breaker at the fuse box trip immediately. If I remove the carthridge (ie, no elements) and turn on the switch, the breakers will still trip.
My first conclusion is that the power hook-up that I described, is ok, otherwise the issue would not be limited to 1 burner, and element cartridge is not the issue since breaker will trip even if cartridge is removed.
If so, I'm assuming the issue is with either the: 1-switch, 2- ceramic receptacle where element cartridge is plugged into, or 3 – wiring between switch and cartridge.
I have several questions:
1.Is my assumption valid that the main power connection is ok?
2.Is a continuity test on switch enough to rule that out as the source of the problem?
3.how to I check if the ceramic receptacle is ok?
4.Is there anything else I missed (before I remove the unit and dismantle to check for continuity on the wires between switch and ceramic receptacle)?
Apologies for long winded question, I figured full story would be more helpful.
thanks for your help
Luke
Best Answer
If the breaker pops when you turn on a specific burner, even if the cartridge is not plugged in, chances are that burner control switch has gone bad. The power on those units goes through the four burner controls before going out to the cartridge sockets.
I had one that if turned on to any setting, would just run the burner on high.
If you can depower the unit, then you could run some continuity tests, so see if the burner control is shorting. The controls are not a simple rheostat, but some form of high current modulator. Off the top of my head, a replacement runs around $60. I think I found someone selling them on eBay.