Wood – Holding plywood between bars for shelves

It sounds like you have a very sensible and thorough approach to the project. Just a few suggestions:

Saw Blade

Most blades that come with table and miter saws are fairly low end. If you are cutting plywood for finish carpentry, you want a high tooth count blade for smooth cuts. Check out one of the blade manufacturers for the range and you will find some recommended for this type of work. The cost is worth it and it will last through many more projects.

Angle cuts

This is where your cut-twice idea is a good idea. You are just trying to replicate a given angle. Measure the angles either with a protractor, or, if the piece being matched is an angle cut across a short dimension (rather than a long bevel) lay it up against the angled saw blade to check.

Use scrap wood to make a try cut angle based on your best estimate. If it is off, adjust the blade or angle guide slightly and try again. When you have the exact angle, cut the good wood.

If you need to make an angle cut on a wide board on the table saw, consider an adjustable taper guide that runs along the fence.

Materials

It wasn't clear to me whether you were going to make the face frames out of pine or just make mock ups and then use oak. For the actual frames, use oak. It is both more rigid and much less prone to seasonal change. All woods shrink and swell somewhat, even when well sealed, but softwoods much more so. You could find shifting of doors and binding drawers if you use a wood that changes much.

Cutting on/next to marking lines

It doesn't matter. What does matter is consistency. You need to know where your mark is in relation to the exact measurement, and cut accordingly. And do the same thing every time.

For example, if you measure a board using a rigid rule, and you mark with a pencil, you can have the far edge of the pencil line at the exact distance. The thickness of the line is within the length you want. Then make a line across the board using a square at the exact spot. Many woodworkers use a scribing tool instead of a pencil to get a finer marking. In this case, you would cut leaving the line behind, since it was within the length you wanted.

Also realize that when your finished cabinet meets other surfaces, such as the wall, it will almost never be an exact fit, due to slight irregularities in angle and levelness of the wall. This is where trim strips come in. While there is a technique for scribing an exact contour to fit a cabinet to a wall, that is a bit more challenging. Unless you are going to do that type of trimming, leaving a cabinet a hair shallow or short is much better than too deep or too high. Shims and trim work wonders.

Any sheet goods are going to be lacking in strength in terms of deflection so your construction will have to compensate for this. You'll want to create rigidity using geometry of some kind like this torsion box or maybe by adding solid wood stretchers and aprons. As far as materials go, I'd be partial to MDO for a project like this but here's your options.

1. Plywood is the strongest of the sheet goods and takes mechanical fasteners by far the best. But it's either a terrible surface to paint (if you get construction grade) or too nice/expensive to cover up (if you get cabinet grade).
2. MDF paints well but is monstrously heavy, is the most prone to sagging, and will not take fasteners in its edges.
3. Particle board is inexpensive but it's flimsy and is almost impossible to seal up well enough to protect it from water damage unless you cover it with laminate but then you've just got a counter-top.
4. Melamine has an durable, stain proof film on both faces but as such it cannot be painted. It's also susceptible to water damage as it's just particle board in the center.
5. MDO is a sheet of plywood covered in a thin layer of MDf. This gives it the strength and versatility of plywood while keeping the weight down, but it also takes paint just like MDF. It's only draw back is that the edges are not finish grade in the traditional sense so they'll need to be banded or captured in some fashion, and it's a bit more pricey than MDF or CDX.