Wood – how to drill a 2 1/2 in by 5 in long hole in wood

Variant on 1) Fill the hole with epoxy, let harden, drill pilot hole in epoxy for screwed, mount the coathanger.

You might want to make the original hole slightly oversize so a good ring of epoxy remains after drilling pilot holes. Using this method, the screws will be removable.

It's tough to say all your future needs will be met, but:

1. 1/2". So, you don't run into problems with larger straight bits fitting.

2. Keyed. If you've had problems with slippage or spinning on smooth shanks it's the only answer. If you had spinning on hex bits, then you did something wrong. However, keyed will also fix pull-out of both smooth & hex shanks.

3. No, but maybe later. For what you mentioned the cheapest drills will handle it all. But, if you get into mixing 5-gallon buckets of Joint Compound or Concrete Resurfacer then you'll kill a smaller motor. However, the bigger the motor the considerably heavier the tool & you won't enjoy that at all for what you're currently doing.

4. Hammer Action. Not needed if you're only doing infrequent small holes & have a set of masonry bits...for most situations.

5. Adjustable clutch. Not needed as long as the drill is variable speed & all of them should be that you'll be considering.

6. Impact Action. As you say you don't want it. But, it's really-really nice. Are you sure? Have you actually tried it for 3-inch & more screws? Yummy-yummy you'll want one.

Actually, except for the 1/2" chuck & I think also for Keyed, but the Corded might be Keyed. I'd recommend the Black & Decker Matrix, it comes in Corded & Cordless. The interchangeable head will make your life so much better. I got a cordless one & all of the attachments I've got actually work better than I expected & quite well overall.