jointsplywoodrouterswoodworking
I am trying to get rabbet of sizable width 2" into 3/4" plywood. I was looking at rabbet bits and the depth (3/8") I need is not and issue but getting the width will be a challenge. The largest diameter I have seen is 1-1/4", and I know I would need to make multiple passes at like 1/4" at a time to get a clean cut as well.
How many bit would I need to accomplish this cut? What would be the sequence of steps to perform it?
Thanks in advance.
Looking at the page you linked to, it looks like it will do the job for you. It has a 1/4" shank which might limit you down the road if you decide you like building things and start doing it all the time.
A rabbet bit goes against the work piece like this:
The dimension B is determined by the size of the bit; you can make it smaller by putting something between the workpiece and the bit; you could use another bit to cut out more, but that makes the whole job a lot trickier because you won't have the bearing on the bit to help guide the router. You have control of dimension A; you make the cut deeper by running the bit over the workpiece multiple times, cutting a little bit more each time.
Other items you'll need are safety glasses, a vacuum cleaner to collect sawdust (it's a carcinogen so don't want to be breathing it) and clamps to hold the work piece.
You need clamps because operating a router is a two-handed job: plunging the router with both hands means that you have even pressure on each side of the bit thus more control if it kicks and it keeps your hands out of the way of the fast-moving machinery.
If you don't already have something sturdy to clamp the workpiece to, you should probably think about getting a workbench. A dedicated routing table is another option, but probably more than you need right now (I'm just now getting to the point where I'm thinking I'd like to have one so can't advise you there).
The traditional tool is a block plane. This is basically a chisel protruding through a smooth flat base that solves the evenness problem.
A variation on that is a tool like a Sureform. This is a hand tool that has numerous small chisel-like edges that shaves of curls of wood.
In either case, once ytou have removed most of the stock, you can finish the edge and get it smooth with the plywood by using a hand sanding block or an orbital power sander.
All of these approaches are a but slower and more work than a router, but do not require specialty tools (and give the special satisfaction that comes with working on wood by hand).
Best Answer
Consider getting dado blades for your table saw. You can stack the blades, usually up to 1 1/4 inches, and do it in two passes. The trick is to guard your fence with 1/2 scrap, and slightly undercut it with the dado before you start.
You'll need featherboards for lateral positioning, and really good down force to keep the stock from bouncing up.
If you're really concerned with the squareness of the edge, cut it a bit narrow with the dados, and finish up the final edge with the router.