Wood – How to make small wheels with minimum equipment (No lathe)

Sorry. My first answer mis-understoood the question. Based on the updated question, there are many ways to create a shape of the desired profile, based on what tools you have or can find/buy/etc.

• Rip the edges with an angled tablesaw blade.
• A handheld power (circular) saw, with the blade at an angle. A fence will help you get a straight edge.
• A jointer.
• A handheld power jointer.
• A hand plane. A good craftsman with a sharp jointer plane can do this easily.
• A router table.
• A handheld router.
• A millwork shop can easily turn this profile out, so you can always buy it ready made, for a price.
• If you have a friend with any of the above power tools, I'll bet they can be bought off for the price of a pizza.

Very much depends on what tools you have, how much money you want to spend. You can use it to justify buying a specific tool, if you have a use for one of the tools I've mentioned. They are all useful.

A tablesaw or a router are both terribly useful tools, but if this is a one time job and you have no interest in woodworking, then I'd look for a friend who can help you out. If you insist on doing it yourself, and might have an occasional use for a hand held circular saw, then go that route. A circular saw will be often enough of use even to someone who is not an avid woodworker.

Attach your board to a straight piece of wood to use as a fence. Then angle the blade, and rip the edge as you want it. I'll argue this is the cheapest solution that will give you a good edge. (A hand held jointer plane might be even cheaper, since you can get them quite inexpensively from an antique shop. But a jointer plane will take some practice to do this job well.)

Be very careful with the grinder. It is only used to establish the original critical angle and to take out nicks in the cutting edge. If you use too heavy a pass and the metal changes color (metal temper color - extremely light straw, you've started to mess up - blue or dull metal color, you've really messed up), you soften the metal and it won't keep an edge till retempered or ground past the area where the coloration occurred.

Once the angle is established, you use standard sharpening stones to keep the edge, they are much finer grit and establish a really sharp edge. On a properly maintained tool with an established angle, this part is a touch-up process, not a laborious grind, and may be done several times during a turning session if maintaining a really sharp edge is necessary.

After fine stone work, you can use a strop charged with buffing compound to remove the burr (wire edge) that results from a good sharpening session. I also just used the buffing wheel on the other grinder (always use the portion of the wheel where the surface is passing away from you so the point doesn't catch and throw the tool at you).