Sorry. My first answer mis-understoood the question. Based on the updated question, there are many ways to create a shape of the desired profile, based on what tools you have or can find/buy/etc.
- Rip the edges with an angled tablesaw blade.
- A handheld power (circular) saw, with the blade at an angle. A fence will help you get a straight edge.
- A jointer.
- A handheld power jointer.
- A hand plane. A good craftsman with a sharp jointer plane can do this easily.
- A router table.
- A handheld router.
- A millwork shop can easily turn this profile out, so you can always buy it ready made, for a price.
- If you have a friend with any of the above power tools, I'll bet they can be bought off for the price of a pizza.
Very much depends on what tools you have, how much money you want to spend. You can use it to justify buying a specific tool, if you have a use for one of the tools I've mentioned. They are all useful.
A tablesaw or a router are both terribly useful tools, but if this is a one time job and you have no interest in woodworking, then I'd look for a friend who can help you out. If you insist on doing it yourself, and might have an occasional use for a hand held circular saw, then go that route. A circular saw will be often enough of use even to someone who is not an avid woodworker.
Attach your board to a straight piece of wood to use as a fence. Then angle the blade, and rip the edge as you want it. I'll argue this is the cheapest solution that will give you a good edge. (A hand held jointer plane might be even cheaper, since you can get them quite inexpensively from an antique shop. But a jointer plane will take some practice to do this job well.)
Wood can be plasticized by various methods ...
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_19.pdf
"Wood members can be readily molded or shaped after immersion in liquid ammonia or treatment under pressure with ammonia in the gas phase. As the ammonia evaporates, the lignin resets, the wood stiffens and retains its new shape. Plasticization of the lignin matrix alone can be done using chemical modification technologies, which are covered later in this chapter."
http://www.google.com/search?q=wood+plasticizing+wood
However, in this video interview of Gustav Reyes published about a year ago, he states (at 1:50 min) that he makes his wood jewelry using steam and compression.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq-zsyL3vZ8
However, he goes on to claim that the process was created 10-15 years ago.
Bending any wood, steamed wood included, puts compression on the fibers along the inner radius, and tension on the fibers along the outer radius. The tension acts to splinter the outer fibers. The compression acts to buckle the inner fibers. The solution, long known, is to apply a metal compression band while the wood is still straight before bending. The strap is placed on the surface that will form the outer radius. The strap greatly reduces the tension (splintering) of the fibers on the outer radius, which is good. But in doing so, it also increases the compression on the fibers along the inner radius, which can be problematic.
If the technique he uses is indeed 10-15 years old, then it is not mere steam+compression and he's told only part of the story. Plasticizing, as detail in the above PDF, is also and old technique, as is PEG impregnation. So the jury is out.
Best Answer
You really need a router. Either a laminate router (the are small and easy to handle) or any router really. Next you need a trim bit. They have MANY different types. Flush cut, 45, 25.5, finish bit. The finish bit will leave a 1/16 laminate left to sand/file, or you could set the 45 bit to get almost flush.
Another way is with a sharp blade in your knife and a piece of wood. Take a scrap piece of ply 4" wide and how ever long you need. Place flat on the "face" of the cabinet and let about an inch hang over the edge. We are using the wood as "backer" when we score the laminate. Now take the knife and score the underside of the laminate a few times pressing the knife to the laminate and the lam to the wood, using the edge of the cabinet as your guide. Do this on a practice piece to get "a feel for it". Either cut all the way through, or score enough and just snap the lam.
* Edit * If you do use a router, apply 3/4 masking tape (or blue tape) to whatever surface the bearing will ride on. This will prevent any marks the bearing will leave, mostly a "shiny" line.