guttersrepairwood
I was helping a friend with her house, and it turns out there is a pretty sizable gash in her fascia board right above where the gutter is nailed on. It's oval-ish, about 6 to 8 inches wide by 2 to 4 inches high, roughly. It is apparent that it is related to water damage.
They want to caulk it, but I think it's something that should get replaced immediately. Is caulk an OK solution for a temporarily fix?
What is the proper procedure for fixing the fascia board?
Epoxy putty, found in the plumbing repair section or adhesives section of your local big box store:
It's a two part compound that you work together like clay. Blend a small amount, per instructions, then force it into the crack, ensuring it completely fills the crack.
Well I can tell you term for the 1X on the angled portion of the roof, it is rake mold. Most rake molds have a bit more elaborate profile, but there is no rule saying it can't be a simple piece of 1X. The term for the same piece running horizontally might be eave mold, but I have never heard or used it in all my years. This may have been a call made by the installing carpenter, for the idea of keeping things consistent, what is on the rakes, is also at the drip edge.
The blocks are there to keep the gutter from hanging at an angle under the roof edge so the rain does not over shoot the gutter, since it is fastened to the projecting 1X. If it was lowered, to eliminate the blocks, the rain when heavy enough, would shoot over the gutter, only light rains would be caught. If you are using aluminum gutters, you will need fasteners only 24-30 inches apart, unless you have heavy snow loads sliding off the roof, then you may need the fasteners every 16 inches. These blocks would only be needed at each fastener location. The composition roof may not let the snow slide, but the roof has a pretty high pitch.
Best Answer
If it's water damage, then the problem has likely spread beyond what's visible. Cut out the problem section, leaving half a rafter to attach to on each side. Replace with a new board (or try one of the new PVC based products). I prefer finish screws for reattaching trim work. However, if the gutter isn't attached to something structural, then go for a stronger screw. They have a small square head that counter sinks itself, easily covered by a bit of spackle. Make sure any drip edge above or below is maintained. Since you're next to the soffit, I don't believe you need to be air tight, but you do want to be very careful to prevent water intrusion. Caulk the joint between the boards, and paint.