deckwood
I have left over 2x4s and OSB from a project a few months back (lean-to shed). It is just enough to make a 12'x8' deck, and I was wondering if this would be "OK" to use for decking? The main purpose is for a deck for my tent at my Colorado property I just recently bought.
Sound structure doesn't really matter to me so much as a level, off-the-ground place for my tent.
Current accepted practice that meets code in NC and is hurricane wind rated - cut a rabbet 24 inches in each piece. Sandwich the rabbet joint between 2 - 18 inch steel plates (galv for coastline) thru bolted with 4 equally spaced bolts. Old method - 12 inch rabbet with 2 - 24 inch steel plates. 2 bolts thru the rabbet and 1 bolt above and below the joint. I think the old method is stronger esp. for sheer but code is code.
First off let me quote the American Wood Council PRESCRIPTIVE RESIDENTIAL WOOD DECK CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (which I recommend looking through).
MANUFACTURED WOOD I-JOIST: Many new homes constructed with wood I-joists include 1" or thicker engineered wood products (EWP) – such as oriented strand board (OSB) or structural composite lumber (SCL) including laminated veneer lumber (LVL) – as band joists (or rim boards) that can support the attachment of a deck. However, some older homes might be constructed with band boards that are too thin (less than 1") to support a deck. In such cases, a free-standing deck or a full plan submission is required.
You asked:
Question 1: I assume that if these clips are still being produced that it must be code assuming proper lag screws and spacing have secured the ledger board?
Yes.
It doesn't matter how the joists have bearing, whether it is a hanger, ledger, or beam. Just use the appropriate hardware/fasteners for the application.
Question 2: If I were to cut away the masonry and lag into the 2x6 studs for the ledger support, would this be a sturdy code compliant ledger board?
Back in the "good old days" when homes were balloon-framed they would use let-in ledgers or ribbon boards to support the floor framing (which was also nailed to the studs, though). So, it is doable, but you may need special permission or even engineer's drawings/specs for approval (might also include blocking and extra hardware). Either way, I would say it is not exactly ideal, but at least you could use structural screws like Ledgerloks or GRKs, since they are smaller diameter and self-drilling and not nearly as likely to split the studs.
(balloon-framed, ribbon-board (ledger) and fire-blocking)
And finally, if applicable, if I were to cut away the masonry to mount a ledger board, I would be worried about water possibly penetrating and getting behind the decorative masonry.
You would have the same worries doing the same thing when cutting out siding for a ledger. Flashing to the rescue :)
Question 3: What is the most appropriate way to prevent water from getting behind my ledger board or the masonry?
Again, flashing is the most important part (aside from proper fastening). You have to lap the flashing properly with the building paper. Just remember the direction water flows so the surfaces have to lap the same way a shingle would. See image below for a good illustration of proper flashing. You can also read this short article describing some of the flashing material choices.
After all that, I would say your best bet is to verify your rim board thickness and do a normal ledger. The second best option is a free-standing deck.
Just be careful there is a lot of bad advice and information on the internet!
Best Answer
How long do you wish this to last? A week? A year? 3 years? 10 years?
OSB will tend to absorb water. It will come apart when subjected to rain, sun, snow, (repeat). This will take less time to happen than you may like. It is simply not designed to resist the elements for any serious period of time.
But if all you want is something that will work for a few weeks or a couple of months one summer, it will suffice. Just don't expect it to be serviceable as a deck surface in a year or so. I suppose that a good coat of a high quality paint will slow things down, but a deck surface is flat. Snow and rain will collect on it and stay there. This will wet the wood, and keep it wet, a bad thing.
As for those 2x4s, are they treated? Again, if these will be in ground contact (something must touch the ground) then they won't last too many years either. Bugs like untreated wood. Water will get into it, so expect it to rot at some point.