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3 screws fell out of lower portion of upper right bracket of ping pong table. What's the wisest/strongest material to use to patch holes into 5/8" medium density fiberboard in order to rescrew (1/2" screws) back into fiberboard.
Thanks
Wood – Patch holes in medium density fiberboard
patchputtywood
Related Solutions
I have used MDF for a number of furniture building applications. Shelving, cupboards, cabinets (body and doors).
- It is easy to work into interesting shapes, you can cut curves using a jigsaw and sand it easily.
- If you sand off any of the surface, and on the cut ends, you get a very different finish than on the front/back surfaces. If you want to get a smooth uniform finish I suggest using an undercoat of acrylic or PVA. If you are careful and get the undercoat right you can get a very smooth (almost plastic looking) finish.
- Best to avoid damaging or removing the surface, as the surface is quite different to the inside and may contribute to the strength (not sure).
- I usually sand over and round any exposed edges to prevent then from getting damaged. I always finish MDF with some kind of paint, so the texture differences are hidden.
- MDF is very dimensionally stable, I have had no real issues with it changing size due to temperature or moisture
- Basic MDF is not very good at handling high moisture levels. I always try and seal it as far as possible using a paint with relatively high moisture retardation (couple of coats of gloss paint for example). I have not so far experienced any serious moisture damage to my MDF even in places I have used it as an experiment in my kitchen where it is exposed to humidity (replacing chipboard which was being damaged by the humidity). However, it has only been a few years so I will see how it is in another 10.
- Use exterior grade MDF if your application is likely to be exposed to high levels of moisture.
- I often fix it with wood glue and dowels, but screws will work fine as long as you drill a pilot hole.
- MDF is not as strong as plywood, if you are using it for shelving/load bearing you will have to increase the thickness compared to plywood or use some other method. For the sides of cabinets, etc, I have sometimes used two pieces attached face to face.
- the dust from working it is a bit horrible, so wear as mask/use extraction
Overall, it has some advantages and some disadvantages. I think it is rarely the best material, but probably good enough for a number of furniture building applications. And for some things (like cutting into shapes with a jigsaw) it is very handy (no grain). I have not so far had any serious durability issues, but I do always take the above precautions.
Dig out any rotted wood that you can get to. Soak the wood with wood hardener around the patch area to stabilize the rotted/deteriorated wood that you couldn't get to. Fill with bondo or wood filler in 1/4" layers until slightly bulging from the patch area. Chisel/file/sand down when the final layer is almost completely dry with a sanding block. Prime and paint. The patch should outlast the rest of your door!
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Best Answer
I think there are two probable options here.
First off, the easiest solution may be as 'Ed Beal' Suggests, and simply move the bracket over a few inches and re-fasten.
The other solution, albeit not very "elegant" is often highly effective. Liberally coat a cut piece of wood just bigger than a toothpick, and just shorter than your hole is deep. Slide in the glued piece of wood, the insert and tighten down your screw.
The screw works to force and press the new wood into the hole and give the screw something to "bite" into. The friction and pressure of this new piece of wood is often enough to keep the fastener in place. The glue keeps it in long term.
It's not an excellent solution if you plan on repeatedly removing the fasteners, or you rely on the fasteners to be in tension often. In this case where you're just holding a bracket in place where the leg will be in compression, I think you can get away with it.