Wood – Removing mistakenly applied linseed oil over lacquer

I've used linseed oil on deck furniture. It gave a beautiful finish (brought out all the natural colors), and looked great for the whole summer. But by the next year it needed doing again, which I'll be doing soon. It's cheap deck furniture, so I don't mind if it degrades a little while I pretend it doesn't yet need to be retreated. Personally, I wouldn't do that with window/door trim.

IIRC, I mixed it with turpentine, which I believe helps it soak into the wood.

Elsewhere on my house I'm testing a toner product called Penofin, on some redwood. That's holding up great so far, and I'm expecting to only have to re-apply it every few years. (it contains micro metalic elements, which reflect/block some of the harmful UV light) There are plenty of Penofin competitors / alternatives too. Personally, I'd use something like that on doors/windows, or paint them.

After staining give a coat of clear finish, sanding it with a fine sandpaper (400G) to remove any raised grain or any dust that may have settled onto the drying finish. This will give you a good base to add your paint and the sanded surface will give it good adhesion. Steel wool has its purpose, but I would not use it here. That's only my opinion. My experience is the steel wool sheds metal bits everywhere, and may be a deal to clean up completely.

After the recommended dry time for the paint is over, give it your final clear coat. I know this did not answer your question about how long to wait before the top coat, but depending on what brand of paint you use, makes a difference. Each paint container always list how long it needs to dry before the next coat. Many usually only need 8 hours.

If you do not have that, the safe rule of thumb is, 24 hours if oil over oil, 2 days if water over oil. I don't know what to recommend if oil over water.