I just finished making a standing desk, the top board is 4×2 feet and is about 45 inches high. I am having a problem with the desk rocking back and forth. Here is a picture of it:
As you can see at the bottom of the left leg there is a 2×4 (there is another one on the right side, that help stop some of the rocking, but not all it. And the bar going across the middle is there to help add weight on the bottom of the desk to help stop the rocking but nothing is completely stopping it.
Woodworking – How to Stop a Standing Desk from Rocking
deskplywoodwoodwoodworking
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The attached pieces and legs may have exacerbated the effects by not moving with the seat but a piece of pine of that size was probably destined to crack regardless. You can try to weep glue down into it (run a line of yellow glue over the crack then blow it down into the void with an air nozzle) and then clamp out the space but it probably won't be permanent and you could damage your finish with the clamp pressure. Were it me, I'd fill the crack with tinted epoxy and let the piece wear the crack like a badge of honor. Think of a piece reclaimed pine:
- Tape off the crack with painters tape. You don't want epoxy all over the finish, just down in the crack.
- Mix a 5 minute epoxy to the manufactures specs, then add 5% by volume a Van Dyke Brown (or similar) aniline pigment. Most manufacturers will recommend a product compatible with their own on their website, I recommend West System.
- Apply the mix carefully over the crack and then force it down in with a putty knife or shim. Trowel off the excess as neatly as possible and let dry. Repeat this step as necessary (sometimes is sinks in after application) until the epoxy fills the void flush with the surface.
- Remove the tape preferably when the epoxy is still sort of gooey and let dry over night. (yes it's 5 minute epoxy but trust me)
- Sand off the residual epoxy with 220 and a light touch and then scuff sand the entire piece with 280.
- Apply a light fresh coat of your original finish.
Hope this helps, cheers!
Use 2x material... it's probably cheaper, stronger, and gives you more surface to screw into. (edit: this was based on the original question -- 'use 1x or 2x material?')
1/2" ply would probably be fine, but I'd suggest you upgrade to at least 5/8" ply (or whatever the horrible version of that is in the box stores -- 19/32"?!?) to skin the exterior. Construction adhesive would also be a recommended upgrade. Screws every foot or so.
With a plywood skin on 4 sides and the top, lateral pressure won't be a problem.
Thicker ply and 2x materials should make this adequate for 1000#, but only you can be the judge. (Maybe we need a bounty to decide what the best testing methodology is... I vote that you take it to a big box store and start loading bags of concrete on it.)
For the top, if you aren't sure that your weight will be bearing on the wood, 5/8" ply wouldn't hurt, either. One cross-brace would probably be all you need to keep the top from sagging and help keep the entire unit from wobbling.
Design-wise, you can make your life somewhat easier by double-thicknessing the legs and lapping them. (Can sketch if needed.) The 2x6 at the bottom could be replaced by a 2x4. (edit: this comment was based on an earlier sketch...)
Edit: let's see if I can add a sketch...
(sigh. after 2 attempts, I can't get it to rotate properly. Sorry.)
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Best Answer
If I see correctly, that your table legs are attached directly to the top with no apron at the top. That there is no rack bracing of any sort, short of the 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" faces and sides screwed together. The apron, when the legs are attached to it properly act as rack bracing to a great degree. Most table aprons are anywhere from 4 to 6" tall, although there is no hard and fast rule how tall it should be.
With a table that tall an 8" apron, properly attached would reduce wobble tremendously.
Moving it off the carpet would be a help too, since there is a 2X flat to the floor which does not allow the carpet to compress enough to give a solid setting. You could raise the bottom stretchers so the legs actually go to the floor, instead of on a 2X flat...