Wood – the best way to attach a timber block to IKEA Linnmon desktop

What types of sealing products you need to use will depend on the type of final finish you want to see. If you have a varnish type finish now, that means you are seeing a clear, transparent finish. You didn't mention if the color of the deck has faded and needs to be refreshed. Refreshing the color would be a complete step to itself. Let's adress the peeling of the old finish. If you want the same end result as you had before the peeling occured, then take the following steps.

First: Remove all loose varnish and sand the entire surface with 150 grit paper. A DA sander is good for this. Assuming the wood color is OK, you do not need to remove all the old varnish, just sand it to remove the gloss and any dirt etc. Remove all the dust, clean thoroughly. Apply a couple of coats of a Spar type varnish. Spar varnish or spar urethane is typically used outdoors and in marine applications. Be sure to give the new finish a couple of days to cure before walking on it.

If you want to completely replace the varnish finish, then you will have to remove all the varnish to bare wood on the entire surface. At this point, you can decide on a new finish. There are lots of choices that would work in your application. If you want to see the natural grain of the wood, then select a transparent stain to re-color the wood without hiding any of the grain. Outdoors, I would prefer a linseed oil based stain formulated for decks, not siding. There is a difference. Getting full oil based stains is getting harder to find today as most have gone to a modified oil base with acrylics added. Again, you could use an oil based spar urethane overcoat to seal the color and waterproof the surface.

Other single step finishes (after removing all old varnish) would be transparent or semi-transparent deck stains. Check with your paint supplier to compare the options. Formulations of deck stains vary as do prices. Lower quality paraffin based products are cheaper and don't last as long. The high end of the spectrum would be something like Sikens oil based deck and dock stain at around $45.00 a gal.

Planed all round means all flat surfaces have been planed.

Planed square edge means you have one edge planed straight and can measure from there. It's one step up from rough sawn.

Timber finish terms for reference

• PAR - Planed all round (both edges and sides)
• PBS - Planed both sides
• PSE - Planed single edge (gives you one straight edge to work from)
• Rough Sawn - raw milled stock

Further designations used in wood grading:

• S4S - Surfaced four sides
• S3S - Surfaced three sides
• S2S - Surfaced two sides
• S1S - Surfaced one side
• Rough

Note that PSE is not necessarily the same as S1S. The board edge (narrowest dimension) is planed straight and true with PSE. For Cedar trim, for example, you have a wide dimension planed smooth.

The Red Oak I used for window trim was S3S, made for nice top and sides, would have been pretty rustic for the rough side to show.