woodworking
I'm new to woodworking and I have started a project that requires some bevel cuts. I'm having difficulty understanding and visualizing what it means to make cuts like "10 degrees off square, short point to long point" or something like, "short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square" or "10 degree angle, longest point measurement."
What does it mean to cut X degrees off square? Or, cutting something to short point to long point?
Yeah, that 4" would be a long cut. It could be done in two passes, one from each side. The middle area would have a bit of an overlap and maybe a blade mark, but that could be sanded down. Plus you are probably going to finish it anyways.
What I would recommend though is changing the shape of your transition piece to make it easier to cut, and would also make it more pleasant to walk ok. I posted a similar question regarding a transition from tile to hardwood. Although your question is different, some of the answers there might help you out. For example, take a look at the shape of this transition piece:
In your case, this would be 3 separate cuts instead of one long one. Also the flat top surface will make it more pleasant to walk on vs. the angle (point) you have at the top of your example.
This will be a tricky joint, and it won't be as strong as you'd like, because the 'neck' of the bevel will be pretty thin. But I'm going to explain how to do it.
You need a table saw and a jig/sled to hold your board vertically. This jig is usually used to make the 'cheek' cuts on tenons, so you may have one.
You'll make two cuts--one shallow crosscut at the deepest point of the bevel, and one face cut to make the bevel itself. Then you can optionally clean up the junction, or, you cut the notch a little deeper (at the expense of weakening the wood further); I show the latter (faster) solution here, since you'll be doing a LOT of these.
Carefully set the depth of the cross-cut to the depth of the bevel. (See picture two.) Cut a notch across the bottom of the wood.
Mount the piece of wood vertically in your cheek-cutting sled. Set the angle of your table saw to the angle of the bevel, looks like about 5-8 degrees might be enough. Adjust the left-right position of the sled so that the top of the cut lines up with the corner of the bevel. (See picture three.)
I have totally exaggerated the amount of kerf and overcut you'll get just so you can see the dangers. In practice you can make the second cut so that it doesn't overcut at all.
The annoying part is you can't test the fit until after step 2, which means you have to recreate the depth for step 1. Not the end of the world, just take your time and sneak up on the depth from the 'shallow' direction.
Best Answer
Hope this helps
The easiest way to find/cut the angle is with a speed square. Here is how to use the speed square to layout an angle: How to Set an Angle with a Speed Square