Wood – use a 16 gauge nail gun for framing lumber

I have to say that I am no fan of cordless framer nailers. I have had two different ones, a Porter Cable and a Pasload. Both were gas fired. The PC was a disaster. Had lots of problems with the propane cells seating properly and nails jamming. Got the Pasload, worked OK, but slow and the smell was so bad that I only used it outdoors. The gas cells are expensive also. After two days on a job, I went back to my trusty Bostich 88 and ran the compressor off a gen set. The other thing I hated was that it could not shoot 10d wire collated nails that I use in my other air framers. Those plastic bits flying at your face sting and you have to reload much more often. Absolutely hate plastic collated nails!

To be honest, I have not tried one of the new battery operated models yet. For framing, I like the largest, thickest nail.(3 1/4") and most cordless ones don't shoot the same larger nails I use in my Bostich.

Since your projects are at home and you already have a 135# compressor, I really think you will get a lot more nailer for the $$$ if you stick with a Bostich 88 mag or similar. You will be able to shoot 4d to 10d nails. The unit itself is much lighter, cheaper and very dependable.

For what you pay for a good cordless, you could own a good framer, 16ga finish and 18ga brad gun, thus having the right tool for every nailing job.

I have to say however, a good cordless finish gun is wicked handy and the battery models have plenty of power, but this humble carpenter is not sold on cordless framers.

Most framing nailers will accept a variety of nail lengths. For example, mine will take nails between 2" and 3.5" (6d to 16d equivalent) and from casual searching this seems to be fairly typical.

That said, you'd be much better off screwing down the sub-floor with decking screws. It's a little bit more work, but you won't have to worry about the nails working themselves out over time due to the deflection of people walking on it.

As far as roofing or hardwood flooring installation, both would require a different gun. Framing nailers aren't designed to accommodate the larger heads on roofing nails, and likely won't ever be - in general, you don't want the nail heads to be much smaller than the nose-piece. The more space you have between the nail head and the bore, the higher the chance of misfires or jams. This is also the reason that most roofing nailers are coil fed instead of stick fed.

Hardwood flooring nailers are fairly specialized equipment because they are designed for precisely blind nailing through the flooring tongues:

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They also use a fastener that is much more like a finish nail than a framing nail. Unless you're planning on doing a lot of roofs or a lot of floors, I'd compare the price of renting a roofing nailer or flooring nailer before purchasing one.