Wood – Vegetable Garden Fence Design with 2×2 Posts

fencegardeninglandscapingoutdoorwood

Let's start with the tl;dr: I'm starting a new vegetable garden and need to put up a fence around it. 16'x12', constructed of wood and metal poultry netting. My goals are to ensure that:

  1. Squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits, raccoons, and neighbourhood cats stay out. No deer here.
  2. The fence will hold up fairly well to small impacts (like a soccer ball kicked by a 5-year-old, or an out-of-control 5-year-old).
  3. The fence can be expanded repeatedly in subsequent years, and completely disassembled/removed/reassembled with relative ease (hence no 4×4 posts set in concrete).

Here's how I was thinking of approaching this, I would appreciate your feedback or suggestions:

  • Use 2×2's for the vertical posts. I found 42" 2×2 stakes and will drive them a foot deep, so the finished height will be 32" above ground.
  • Use 2×2's for rails running along the bottoms and the tops of the posts. Most posts will be spaced 4' apart.
  • Use standard 2×4 concealed fence rail brackets to make both installation and removal of the rails easier and cleaner. (Do you suggest something else??). I will line up all the posts, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw in all the brackets before the posts ever go into the ground.
  • Staple mesh fencing to the outside of the posts and along the frame. Extend the mesh a few inches above the top of the fence frame (to deter wood-climbing animals) and bury it a few inches into the ground (to deter some diggers).
  • Build a simple door about 3' wide with using 2×2's for the frame (or possibly 1×2's with mesh fencing sandwiched between them).

A couple things I'm also wondering:

  • My yard slopes, about 1/2" per foot. Do I slope my fence or do I make sure every post top is level with every other? 1/2" isn't much, my rails should still fit neatly in the rail brackets. Do I offset the brackets on either side of each post? (I prefer the "standardization" since I can move the fence to any other near-level surface in the future, but I might just be acting dumb).
  • Should I put some boards around the bottom of the fence for additional structural support, to withstand some extra impacts, etc.? 1x6x8 SPF are $4 apiece (I'm in Canada) = $28 total.

Your suggestions are welcome! Diagrams, images, more info can be provided. I hope this wasn't too long. Thanks in advance!

Best Answer

I will line up all the posts, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw in all the brackets before the posts ever go into the ground.

What if you can't drive one all the way to your predicted depth, or what if you drive one your predicted depth and it is not yet stable and you want to drive it further? I would not pre-attach your rail brackets or I bet they will not end up straight/level.

Do I slope my fence or do I make sure every post top is level with every other?

Slope the fence, 1/2" per foot adds up.

boards around the bottom of the fence for additional structural support, to withstand some extra impacts

Unnecessary for impact, unless you expect charging cats and hedgehogs to head-butt the fence. But it might add some extra stability.