carpentrytrimtrim-carpentrywood
I'm replacing some fascia boards, I am looking for something that is rot-resistant but I am hesitant to use pressure treated lumber due to shrinkage as it dries out and I don't want gaps (project has to be done over a few days).
What are some good wood alternatives that are competitive in terms of price/performance? Hopefully I am not asking for too much, but if you could list the alternatives in terms of relative price that would be awesome.
The go-to materials for outdoor construction are cedar and pressure treated wood.
Many prefer cedar, and most kits you see from big box stores and other sources use it. It is generally more expensive, but it is lighter and softer (for drilling and hammering). It will last for a number of years untreated, and even longer if it is pre-treated with penetrating sealer and occasionally retreated. Be sure to coat the end cuts for maximum benefit.
Pressure treated woods are also very durable and will also last years with little or no maintenance. In the past, the treatments used harsh chemicals (called CCA for short) that were not ideal for skin contact and when cutting the wood, dust precautions were required. More recent forms use less caustic chemicals and may be allowed in your jurisdiction. (Personally I would avoid pressure treated where food or kids are involved).
While all outdoor projects require hardware that is weather resistant, pressure treated woods need specially coated fasteners to avoid a chemical reaction that causes corrosion.
After pricing good quality materials, you may find that kits from manufacturers may be a fairly good value. I recently built a swingset with a fort, slide and climbing wall from a major manufacturer. It arrived on a 4x8 foot pallet with all cedar, hardware and plastic parts. The instructions were surprisingly good, all parts present and in proper order. Cedar, stainless, and plastic. Even predrilled correctly (one hole at wrong end - no biggy).
A search online will show you these options in both big box stores and directly from manufacturers or their distributors. There are surely units that cost many thousands of dollars, but a significant set can be bought for several hundred. Many sources offer onsite assembly for a few hundred dollars. But where would the fun be in that? The look on my grandkids faces made the cost and time in building all worthwhile.
The "mysteriously gigantic" nailers are probably 15 gauge trim nailers similar to this one:
Sounds like the one that you have is a finish nailer, and is likely a smaller gauge and uses nails with smaller heads. Thus less driving power required and a smaller gun. A trim nailer will generally give you better holding power, but also higher possibility of splitting wood, especially thinner stock.
Assuming the nailer you have is working for what you're using it for and can use long enough nails, I don't see any reason to stop using it - I've trimmed with a finish nailer before without issues.
As far as your metal tip goes, I would doubt you'll be able to find one from the manufacturer for a cheap Harbor Freight gun. One thing I've done in the past when I've lost mine or broken it is to lightly dip the tip in Plasti-Dip (the rubberized tool handle coating stuff). Just make sure that it doesn't interfere with the action of the gun at all 1/16 - 1/8 inch is plenty.
Best Answer
Cedar is what I have used because it is very good at rot resistance, fascia boards especially with gutters attached are one of the places in a home I usually find rot if your budget allows redwood is even better but cost more.