Wood – White scratches/spots on wood furniture- how to fix
furniturewood
Can anyone identify what the white marks are on this wood table? And how to remove? I’ve tried Murphy’s Oil Soap and no change.
Best Answer
I can't identify what the white marks are, but I can suggest some ways of covering it up.
If you have a can of brown shoe polish, you can rub some of that onto the wood and it will help cover up the white marks. Personally, I don't like doing this because shoe polish is wax based and can leave residue that won't absorb stain if you want to refinish the wood later.
The next easiest option is to buy a bottle of Old English Scratch Cover For Dark Woods. I use it at home and it works well for stuff like this. My biggest complaint about this product is that it doesn't last more than a year. It seems to fade over time and you have to reapply it.
Another option short of refinishing the wood is to buy a liquid stain that matches from the hardware store. You can apply it to the marks and then immediately wipe it off. You don't have to apply a wood sealer on top, but if you do it will last longer.
If you find that the white marks don't absorb anything and seem to be on top of the wood instead of inside of the finish, then you can try removing them with a scouring pad or some fine 360-600 grit sandpaper and retry one of the steps above again.
If this doesn't work, then you might be looking at refinishing the wood. This would mean sanding the top layer of wood off, staining, and then sealing with a polyurethane/polycrylic (read the stain's instructions for which sealer it recommends.)
By "White spirit", do you mean turpentine or mineral spirits? If that had no effect on it... My best guess would be that it's improperly cured polyurethane, or water-based polyurethane that wasn't mixed properly. Additionally, polyurethane doesn't take to pine well and is pretty resistant to being removed chemically, so there's another pointer in that direction.
You can try denatured alcohol. If it comes up with denatured alcohol, it's probably improperly mixed shellac.
What I'd probably do if I were you would be to sand it down completely back to bare wood, first with 80 grit and then 120 and 220 grits. I know it's a pain in the butt, but it'll provide the best finish overall. Then stain it and finish it again with something that isn't polyurethane... if you stain it, I'd recommend a lacquer finish like Deft, and then a really nice set of absorbent coasters so that you don't keep getting the surface wet. ;) Or if you do use polyurethane, use a satin spray in a rattlecan and bring it indoors to a moisture and temperature controlled environment to cure for 48 hours before you put it back into use. And your last option would be to paint it (after sanding back to bare wood, or it won't adhere!) with an oil-based enamel and a bit of penetrol.
It could go rancid and smell for sure since it's a vegetable oil. It's definitely not used for finishing things like cutting boards for this very reason.
Soap and water are useful in getting oil off of things that are sealed, but if it's discolored the table I'm guessing it's not very well protected. That makes the problem difficult since any kind of oil seeps deeply into wood fibers. I'm not sure how far oil penetrates into Teak since it's a naturally oily wood in the first place.
If you do manage to get it cleaned up (which probably involves sanding and refinishing at the very least), it might be worthwhile to build a nice protective finish next time.
Best Answer
I can't identify what the white marks are, but I can suggest some ways of covering it up.
If you have a can of brown shoe polish, you can rub some of that onto the wood and it will help cover up the white marks. Personally, I don't like doing this because shoe polish is wax based and can leave residue that won't absorb stain if you want to refinish the wood later.
The next easiest option is to buy a bottle of Old English Scratch Cover For Dark Woods. I use it at home and it works well for stuff like this. My biggest complaint about this product is that it doesn't last more than a year. It seems to fade over time and you have to reapply it.
Another option short of refinishing the wood is to buy a liquid stain that matches from the hardware store. You can apply it to the marks and then immediately wipe it off. You don't have to apply a wood sealer on top, but if you do it will last longer.
If you find that the white marks don't absorb anything and seem to be on top of the wood instead of inside of the finish, then you can try removing them with a scouring pad or some fine 360-600 grit sandpaper and retry one of the steps above again.
If this doesn't work, then you might be looking at refinishing the wood. This would mean sanding the top layer of wood off, staining, and then sealing with a polyurethane/polycrylic (read the stain's instructions for which sealer it recommends.)