The Easy Way
Fortunately, you're holding up a model train, not an actual train, so you can take some liberties.
The hard part is following the rounded, off-square corners; the easy way to work around that is to literally cut corners. Rather than attempt to follow the rounded corners, just install four shelves as long as the straight parts of each wall, then measure and cut four trapezoid shaped connectors for the corners. Just about any method would work to join the trapezoids to the main shelves since there's not much weight to support. You might use pocket screws, maybe half lap joints if you have the router etc. available.
The Hard Way
You could do some geometry, measure diagonals, get out a protractor, etc. etc., and find the angles. You may even be able to use an app that works with your phone to determine the layout. But in my experience these things don't end well :)
Here's how I picture doing it ... be warned, these things don't always work the way I pictured it.
Install your shelf brackets first
You'll want to rest the shelves on the brackets as you figure things out. I'd place them all on the straight (not rounded) part of the wall, but try to get one as close as possible to the point where the wall starts to round.
Make each shelf as if it was going to be the only shelf
This will be the most time consuming step.
Use a contour gauge, make a pattern out of cardboard, and cut each shelf to hug the rounded part with a jigsaw or coping saw. A rasp may be handy for fine adjustments. Be prepared to spend some time and possibly waste some material.
Err towards removing less material and you'll be less likely to have to scrap it and start over. Remember that a 5-6mm gap will be fine, you're not machining an engine block, you don't need thousandths of an inch precision.
Look forward to the steps where these shelves are cut to fit - don't waste time fussing with a good fit in the portion that's going to wind up cut off.
Lay the shelves in place and mark intersection points
This step is easy but it's the key to the layout. Lay the North and South shelves in place on the brackets, then lay the East and West shelves on top of them. Mark the inside intersection points in each corner, on both shelves.
Cut the East and West shelves
The exact angle isn't important, you don't have to bisect the angle perfectly as long as you start the cut from the intersection point. That will be the key to making these fit nicely.
Mark and cut the North and South Shelves
Now you're coasting... put the East and West shelves back on top of the North and South shelves and mark the cut lines.
Check the fit, and fasten the shelves to the brackets, and you're ready to put tracks on it.
Best Answer
The floor is marginal, the deflection is almost an inch. This might be tolerable, but deflections also put a lot of stress on the screws. Damp soil weighs more than water, 96 lbs/ft3 according to one website, so it could be worse than these calculations.
Floor calculation:
Another concern is the strength of the corners. If this stand isn't level, there will be tremendous forces on the corners. Even if it starts level, settling could make it un-level. I would sink PT 4x4s 3 ft into the ground in the corners (or maybe 6 total), so there is no chance of the corners rupturing and it falling and hurting someone.
I don't know how to account for the corrugated steel, so I didn't calculate the side strength.
Edit for new design:
Floor calculation:
2x6 side rail calculation:
Both of these calculations are OK. I can't comment on the remainder of the design without seeing a detailed diagram. I don't know how to analyze screw and bolt strength, so I wouldn't necessarily be able to confirm a complete design anyway.
If you are going to rest the 2x6 on top of the 4x4s, you need to be sure that there is no chance that it can slip off.