How do a secure a wardrobe to a wall if there is a roughly 1.25" gap between the wall and the wardrobe due to the molding on the wall? I'd prefer to not have a screw visibly poking out the back of the wardrobe and going into the wall because it positioned where it will be visible often. Are there any tricks I can employ to avoid the eyesore? Thanks!
Drywall – How to secure wardrobe to wall if 1.25″ gap exists between wall and wardrobe
drilldrywallfurniturewalls
Related Solutions
This is how I solved exactly the same problem in my bedroom:
Go ahead and place the drywall over the top edge of the crown moulding. Sounds like the wall was already re-plastered with it in place. If you tried to remove it, you may end up re-doing the walls as well. Even forgetting that, it's almost impossible to remove moulding without sustaining some loss. Without replacement material available, removal with intents of preservation is extremely risky, especially with stain grade material. You don't want to go there.
If your joists were flat, you'd still only need to shim down the first 4 feet or so along the walls, no one will see the resulting slight slope. Keep this in mind when planning your shims. It doesn't have to be perfectly flat, unless that gives you pleasure. You also don't need to shim to completely fill the gap. An 1/8" gap makes a clean shadow line that is not detrimental (assuming it is perfectly uniform) at all. It also makes finishing easier. The taped joints of drywall are normally not perfectly flat, despite the tapered edges. There is a slight bulge which is usually invisible. But against straight moulding, depending on the profile, this bulge may be visible. You might consider grinding down the edge tapers at the board corners against the wall so the joint tape can be completely buried and the yet the joint against the moulding can still be perfectly flat.
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Best Answer
You might try something like the Hangman Anti-Tip kits. You can locate the anchors in the middle of the wardrobe so that the hardware isn't easily visible. You would need to hit a stud to really get holding power.
Editing to add that while that would mean cutting a hole through the back panel, this is IKEA furniture, so the back panel is really just cardboard. The anchors for the anti-tip install to the underside of the top, so if this is the route you try, be sure the screws you are using won't poke through the top!