I'm remodeling my attic in my bungalow, the way I want to do it is to leave the rafters exposed so I get a rustic loft look. What I done first was put wood strips up between the rafters then installed the flat foam insulation onto the wood strips so there was a expansion cap between the roof and the foam insulation. Then I put up the 3/4 drywall between the rafters. Now I'm doing the taping on those inside corners of the drywall between the rafters My Question Is,,, because one side of the drywall mud and tape will be on the rafter when we get our extremely cold winter weather even though the attic will be heated can those rafters freeze and cause the corners to crack.
Drywall,taping attic ceiling
atticdrywall
Related Solutions
The most important thing to know is you still need air movement in the cold space. So air moving from soffets into air vents etc. This will stop mold. Then because of the overwhelming exposure, you will need lots of insulation. Check your local building codes. Where I'm from, it's something like R-28 with vapor barrier, and then whatever type of drywall.
Secondly, if you're making this a habitable zone, you need to have a way to heat/cool this space as it's now part of your dwelling.
With concrete, the concern is moisture. Any furring strips should be pressure treated, and I've also seen good suggestions to use the foam barrier that you would typically use under a sill plate as an extra defense, e.g. this stuff (click the photo for the product page):
For pressure treated, make sure any nails are galvanized to avoid the chemical reaction that would eat normal nails. If you're using foam panel insulation, then seal any gaps on the sides. I'd also use a vapor barrier on top of the furring strips, behind the drywall. And finally, for the drywall, use something mold and moisture resistant to avoid future problems. Moist environments are also a good place to use the fiberglass mesh tape, instead of the paper tape, to finish the joints.
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Best Answer
Since the wood is apt to move a little, I suggest you use "tear away bead", and maybe apply some painter's caulk after a season if you see any gaps. The alternative would be flat taping, but that depends on a pretty close fit between the drywall and the timber.