I would start troubleshooting by disconnecting the Load side of the GFCI, this will tell you if the problem is upstream or downstream from the receptacle.
- Turn off the breaker supplying the GFCI.
- Disconnect the wires on the
Load side of the GFCI.
- Turn the breaker back on.
- Press the reset
button on the GFCI.
If the GFCI resets with nothing connected to the load terminals, you'll want to look for a short/problem in the lines and devices supplied by the GFCI. If the GFCI does not reset with nothing connected to the load terminals, you'll have to trace the line back to the breaker looking for shorts/problems along the way.
It sounds like you have or had knob and tube wiring that might have been converted,
which consists on a Hot and a Neutral With no Ground (which is needed for GFCI, but
sometimes use the Neutral pigtail to mickey mouse false ground,).
*You can add a ground with a wire to copper pipe from sink’s water supply or run to basement)
14-2 wire is rated at 15 amps MAX
12-2 wire is rated 20 amps MAX
If you splice or run off a 14 Gauge to a 12 Gauge you must treat it as a 14 gauge
The higher the gauge the smaller the wire weakest link being 14 while using 14 to 12
If you are rewiring the whole bath and rooms then 12 gauge is the sanest answer
12 Gauge handles 15 or 20 amperes 14 should not be more than 15 for safety reasons
(When using 12 on 20A breaker use screw terminal as opposed to tension insert)
Testing for a hot wire when there is no labeling on wire casing (sheath) use a meter on
~ AC
And use a ground from ground cold water pipe and then touch pos lead on each wire (they
do sell polarity test tools also don’t always work with conversion wiring)
The 110 – 120V reading wire is the hot
Hope that answers your question.
Sincerely BEAR
Best Answer
With bathrooms, Code now gives you two forks in the road.
Rewire time is a great time to address problems like, as Jim Stewart says, breakers tripping when Mom and daughter try to run hair dryers at once. Honestly, I wouldn't even consider it excessive to supply two 20A receptacle circuits, so the occupant of that bathroom can run a curler and hair dryer at once. This could even be done with a single 12/3 cable using our old friend the MWBC.
As far as extending the bedroom circuit outside, that is fine. However I learned not to leave expensive electronic things outdoors. That includes GFCIs. I would fit a cheaper indoor-rated GFCI+receptacle inside the bedroom at whichever location you tap for the outside extension. Hang the cable to the outdoor receptacle off the
LOADterminals of that GFCI. Then, fit a plain receptacle outdoors. It won't deteriorate nearly as fast, and when it does, it's $2.