(I know this question has been asked before (here), but I followed the advice recommended by the users in that thread to help remedy the problem, but the lights still glow.)
I recently bought dimmable LEDs for my house, and I've noticed that the lights glow a little bit even while the dimmer is turned off (I have illuminated light switches to DO NOT use the neutral wire). I suspect this is due to the wall switches using the light bulb itself as neutral. When the wall switch is on, the bulb gets full line voltage. When the wall switch is off, the bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the bulb.
I replaced the dimmer with the Luron MACL-153M, a digital dimmer that is specifically made for LEDs/CFLs, but that problem still persists (note: this dimmer also DOES NOT use the neutral wire, and is illuminated with a small light).
I then replaced one room's dimmer with a smart WiFi switch that DOES use the neutral wire, and walla, no glow. Also, if I use a non-illuminated switch, the LEDs do no glow while the switch is turned off.
So I tried a solution that seems to work for the rest of the rooms where I don't want smart light switches. I added a 10k ohm resistor in between the load and the neutral (so in parallel), and it seems to "drain" that small electricity leak from the dimmer. When I did this, the LEDs did not glow when turned off.
Now, my question to the community is: Is there a safer way to do this? Of course I covered all exposed wires with electrical tape, and my resistor is rated at 200 volts (I live in the US). And theoretically, this resistor is acting just like another bulb on the circuit, but that does not emit light.
I looked around for a non-wifi/Bluetooth/etc. dimmer that uses the neutral wire, and the only one seems to be a Leviton one that costs $60–way too pricey. Adding a resistor in parallel makes sense and is much more cost-effective. Please let me know if this is ok/safe long term.
Best Answer
First and foremost, absolutely required: this has to be inside a steel box. No plastic boxes. The metal box needs to be grounded. This will keep containment on a variety of problems.
Thermal calcs can be quite complicated so I like to shortcut them by leaning conservative. Everything in modern mains wiring is rated at 60C. I assume ambient is about 30C. So I'm looking for a solution that will give about a 20-25C rise.
Power resistors are real fond of giving 180C or even 350C rise at full rating. Going "I'll derate by 30% and that'll be good" is a noob mistake. I've had to use a 1000W resistor to get an acceptable rise at 230W.
Also using a resistor like the anodized aluminum types which require a heat sink, is inappropriate unless you attach it to a heat sink. They have favorable thermal ratings, but only with the heat sink. Junction boxes are not listed to be heat sinks.
Experience led me to an Ohmite L25 series with lugs. The data says we'll have just shy of a 20C rise at 1.44W and that will be fine. The lugs will allow crimp lug attachment with #6-32 or 8-32 screws.