Do you have the space for an adapter like this one?
Lighting EVER Candelabra Screw (E12) to Medium Screw (E26) Enlarger Light Bulb Socket Adapter
Q:
I'm going to overload it by using a larger bulb ?
A:
Electrically you are limited to the maximum amperage that the wiring will support, if it is rated for a 75W 125V then that's 0.6
Amps each (Wattage = Voltage * Amperage). You're not changing the
voltage or number of lamp so it doesn't quite matter (doing the
numbers that is). You can do up to the same amount of actual Wattage
used, which for LEDs would be significantly less.
Heatwise, the LEDs should produce significantly less heat than
incandescent, just make sure you have at least 1/8" between the LED's
bulb and the shade/globe/etc and you should be alright; incandescent
should be more like >1/2".
- CFL Side Note The same electricity rules apply for CFLs (or anything, note CFLs do have a peak turning on but I doubt you'll find a 75 actual Wattage CFL to fit), but I'd increase the minimum gap for heat to about the same as in incandescent ~1/2". I've had a few cheaper lamps with CFLs burn/melt so I'm a little over cautious with CFL and proximity even though they should produce less heat than their incandescent Lumen- relative counterpart.
Q:
The bulbs will be put in sideways; I hear many LED bulbs are unidirectional; what degree/angle should I be looking for?
A:
For unidirectional light, you probably need to find one with a diffuser or multiple LEDs pointing in different directions. If you can see the individual LED(s), it will shine light in the opposite direction(s) it/they are mounted only so if they all point in the same direction it's unidirectional. If you can't see the individual LED(s) then it is probably diffused (though it may not be diffused well)
Reading between the lines ...
Where I live, a normal domestic lightswitch works like this
Fusebox Ceiling Switch
======= ======= live ======
Live ----------------------o------------->------o/ o-.
Earth --------------------o-------------------- |
Neutral ----------------o | o----------<--------------'
| | | switched live
| |
\/\/\
bulb
(At "ceiling" there is a junction box / rose where wires are joined)
Because there is no neutral in the switch backbox, there is no way to
complete a circuit there and power any active component like a PIR motion
detector.
Incandescent bulbs have a low resistance when cold and off butr develop a high resistance when hot and on.
You can exploit this feature to power a gadget in the light switch, instead of
a simple switch you add a high resistance load across the switch, this allows a small
current to pass through the incandescent lightbulb when the switch is off. This small
current is not enough to light the bulb (the wire inside is not red hot, it might glow a tiny bit though, depends on current)
Switch
======
/
----+-o/ o--+---.
| | |
'-/\/\/\-' |
PIR |
|
-----------------'
However, any kind of LED lamp is not going to have the characteristics of an incandescent bulb which are being exploited here. Your PIR motion detector is unlikely to work if the
lamp is not incandescent.
If it does work, it would be because the LED lamp's internal driver circuit can work from
lower voltages and currents - so you are likely to see some unwanted visible effects. It might be that some manufacturers use a type of LED-driver circuit that would allow your PIR switch to work but you may have to buy a lot of different LED lights to find one that does. You might never find one that does. Without knowing the internal details of the specific LED lamp it is difficult to make any predictions.
I notice that the advert you link to has a link to a replacement part whose description says it does work with LEDs. It is reasonable to infer the vendor is aware that the discontinued one does not.
Note on terminology:
Your Q was hard for me to understand because you are using terms in a way that is non-standard (at least in my part of the world)
trickle charge - is a small current used to slowly charge a car battery.
active wire - is not a term I've seen used in relation to household power.
outlet - usually means a 3-pin wall socket (not a light switch back-box or patress)
Best Answer
Dimming LEDs
For a typical ceiling fan, the light fixture is exactly that-- a light fixture. It is nothing more than wires, a chain switch, and bulb socket(s).
Dimming LED bulbs in a typical ceiling fan fixture will be completely dependent on ensuring a few things:
If you have a fancier ceiling fan with integrated remote features, fade on/fade off lights, etc., the actual fan fixture could come into play. However, from your question it does not sound like this is your case.
Illuminated Switch with LED load
First, see here: How does an illuminated switch light up without a neutral
You have a few options:
As you've probably noticed, there could be a bit of trial and error in this process. LED bulbs are not like incandescent bulbs where all bulbs were virtually the same and therefore behaved the same. LEDs are driven by electronics within the bulb housing, and these electronics can and will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even from product to product within the same manufacturer.