Odd that you said you had a white wire that was hot. Both white wires should be neutral and have no voltage. Seems to me wires would go like this: connect all black wires together. That will run hot all the time to the fan as well as sending power downstream. Next tie all white wires together. That will provide neutral to the fan as well as pass neutral downstream. Ideally there would be a bare copper wire coming from the hot side and another to continue downstream. The red to blue should switch the light, providing that blue is the correct one for the light.
Are you in Europe? Blue means neutral there. America doesn't use blue, neutral is white or gray.
One of those wires must be "hot" for the lamp.
All the other wires are speed control of the fan. By connecting, isolating or cross connecting various wires, you get various speeds. The old switch knows how to do that.
The new receiver does not. It expects to only switch the fan on/off and "something downstream" manages speed, e.g. with a pull cord. If you want that functionality, you either need a receiver that supports all those wires, or find a way to move or add the proper speed selector switch to the fan proper.
You might be able to retain the old speed selector switch, and have it takes its power from the receiver instead of from always-hot. Then the receiver would control off/on, and the old switch would control speed. That may mean putting the receiver next to the old controller instead of up at the fan. Identify the lamp wire, and bypass that on the old switch and let the receiver control it directly. However there's a risk to that: most fan control switches force you to start the fan in "high". That's because if you start in "low", it may not have enough torque to start turning, and sit there stalled overheating the windings. It's best to use only products listed/rated for that purpose.
Best Answer
From Looking at your other post. With only 2 wires from the fan? I would connect switched hot and neutral. I would connect the 2 Red wires together with a wire nut. Then the yellow it needs to be connected to the neutrals wire nut. The only thing odd is the neutral going towards the switch , if the hot jumps to a 2nd switch for a light then that would make sense.